Audio upgrade questions

[Scatpack2023]

Sometimes it's cheaper to pay more for something better in the beginning.

Covidcommander, absolutely, I agree with that! I actually was ready to spend even more on the JL Audio Stealth box but after in depth research, many issues surface in my application due to the Bilstein adaptive suspension module mounted where the Stealth box would reside and all of the issues that creates, otherwise I probably would have spent even more. Back to the HK twin sub oem box versus the JL Audio powered sub. The question I had to consider is does one actually sound or perform better, or last longer than the other regardless of price? When it comes to the powered JL, it seems to have a pretty good record, and it is all new with a warranty. The HK even new would have to be modified, still no warranty and would it actually perform any better? Just alot of unknowns there with each choice. Hopefully I made the best decision. Will see here soon!

 

[Diboblo]

I went down that rabbit hole.

Bought, modified and installed the HK dual sub box. Ran it for a little while. Rated at about 75 watts RMS, it does a good job of delivering what I call "fill" bass. It won't wow you. It just fixes that low end imaging that some systems need.

I am retarded, however. A long time bass head. So... it wasn't long before I gave the entire box the beans. New 10" low profile subs, gutted the OEM wiring, inside the box (including connector) wired the new dvc subs in parallel, then series, for a 2 ohm total load. Pushed it with a Kicker 400.1 Class D amp and walked away.

Man... what a raging animal that system is, now. Not obnoxious, but it is exactly what I wanted.

I recently upgraded to a more efficient Class D Mosfet amp. Still in the tuning stages, but the imaging is already much better

I've had it both ways and was very happy with the first iteration. However, as most here know, I'm the resident mad scientist and can't keep my hands off anything electronic, for long. LOL

Looking forward to seeing the OP installation and always glad to see constrictive conversations, here.

 

[Scatpack2023]

I went down that rabbit hole.

Bought, modified and installed the HK dual sub box. Ran it for a little while. Rated at about 75 watts RMS, it does a good job of delivering what I call "fill" bass. It won't wow you. It just fixes that low end imaging that some systems need.

I am retarded, however. A long time bass head. So... it wasn't long before I gave the entire box the beans. New 10" low profile subs, gutted the OEM wiring, inside the box (including connector) wired the new dvc subs in parallel, then series, for a 2 ohm total load. Pushed it with a Kicker 400.1 Class D amp and walked away.

Man... what a raging animal that system is, now. Not obnoxious, but it is exactly what I wanted.

I recently upgraded to a more efficient Class D Mosfet amp. Still in the tuning stages, but the imaging is already much better

I've had it both ways and was very happy with the first iteration. However, as most here know, I'm the resident mad scientist and can't keep my hands off anything electronic, for long. LOL

Looking forward to seeing the OP installation and always glad to see constrictive conversations, here.

Hello Diboblo,
Very interesting! Wishing I could have heard all iterations of your HK system. All I can go by is what the entire HK system sounded like in my first 2023 Challenger. Honestly I wasn't wanting for any changes in it. I couldn't find another Scat Pack last call Challenger with the different equipment I wanted and also with the HK stereo. If I could have I wouldn't be changing or adding a thing. That's the way it goes. Hoping the 10 speaker Alpine with this JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 will give me comparable sound. If I may, would you care to comment on the patch connection to the 8 inch free air dual voice coil wiring in the rear deck. Some say leave the 8 inch sub disconnected. Others say leave it connected. Some say connect one voice call positive and negative to left channel input of JL amp and other voice coil positive and negative to right channel input of JL amp. How would you do it? Have you ever checked the voltage output available to the sub at high volume levels with the oem HK or Alpine system in the Charger or Challenger? One person mentioned with this specialized JL amp and very low ohm sub is designed to run on max 5.4 volts connected to high level signal. This was a specification I've never considered or thought about before.

 

[covidcommander]

Hello Diboblo,
Very interesting! Wishing I could have heard all iterations of your HK system. All I can go by is what the entire HK system sounded like in my first 2023 Challenger. Honestly I wasn't wanting for any changes in it. I couldn't find another Scat Pack last call Challenger with the different equipment I wanted and also with the HK stereo. If I could have I wouldn't be changing or adding a thing. That's the way it goes. Hoping the 10 speaker Alpine with this JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 will give me comparable sound. If I may, would you care to comment on the patch connection to the 8 inch free air dual voice coil wiring in the rear deck. Some say leave the 8 inch sub disconnected. Others say leave it connected. Some say connect one voice call positive and negative to left channel input of JL amp and other voice coil positive and negative to right channel input of JL amp. How would you do it? Have you ever checked the voltage output available to the sub at high volume levels with the oem HK or Alpine system in the Charger or Challenger? One person mentioned with this specialized JL amp and very low ohm sub is designed to run on max 5.4 volts connected to high level signal. This was a specification I've never considered or thought about before.

I saw directions for using the powered sub on here with a separate amp. Seems like that would be the way to go. Was thinking about adding it to my 6 speaker charger. Sounds horrible stock compared to the hk.

 

[GNBRETT]

Um.... no. I had the Diablosoprt suspension module. It doesnt interfere or get in the way at all IDN who's telling u that but thats complete BS. The Stealth Box for one isnt HARD mounted and unremovable. One screw and it comes out, pull the carpet back and there is ur suspension controller.

What issue is it supposed to be creating? The suspenion controller doesnt stop working cause the car has bass now. If that was the case then ANY decent bass would do that. Bass isnt specific to one area bro the whole car feels it and so do u YOU sitting in the drivers seat it makes ZERO difference where the sub is located.

I never had one issue ever worked flawlessly...... Not to mention that suspension controller doesnt do shit anyway unless u get the DSC version which is adjustable unlike the Diablosport version.

With a decent amp the Stealbox will out perform ANY of the JL sub boxes with built in amps. ANY..... Ive tried many over several years the Stealbox is just the best for this application when wanting to still have a trunk. Its REALLY small and out of the way and puts out REALLY good bass.

Covidcommander, absolutely, I agree with that! I actually was ready to spend even more on the JL Audio Stealth box but after in depth research, many issues surface in my application due to the Bilstein adaptive suspension module mounted where the Stealth box would reside and all of the issues that creates, otherwise I probably would have spent even more. Back to the HK twin sub oem box versus the JL Audio powered sub. The question I had to consider is does one actually sound or perform better, or last longer than the other regardless of price? When it comes to the powered JL, it seems to have a pretty good record, and it is all new with a warranty. The HK even new would have to be modified, still no warranty and would it actually perform any better? Just alot of unknowns there with each choice. Hopefully I made the best decision. Will see here soon!

 

[Scatpack2023]

Um.... no. I had the Diablosoprt suspension module. It doesnt interfere or get in the way at all IDN who's telling u that but thats complete BS. The Stealth Box for one isnt HARD mounted and unremovable. One screw and it comes out, pull the carpet back and there is ur suspension controller.

What issue is it supposed to be creating? The suspenion controller doesnt stop working cause the car has bass now. If that was the case then ANY decent bass would do that. Bass isnt specific to one area bro the whole car feels it and so do u YOU sitting in the drivers seat it makes ZERO difference where the sub is located.

I never had one issue ever worked flawlessly...... Not to mention that suspension controller doesnt do shit anyway unless u get the DSC version which is adjustable unlike the Diablosport version.

With a decent amp the Stealbox will out perform ANY of the JL sub boxes with built in amps. ANY..... Ive tried many over several years the Stealbox is just the best for this application when wanting to still have a trunk. Its REALLY small and out of the way and puts out REALLY good bass.

Hello GNBRETT,
Well, that's good information but here's what I based my decision on. The Stealth box being a 12 inch and JL designed just for the Challenger (I don't recall, do you have a Challenger or Charger?) that it might perform the best. The Charger Stealth box it a different sub from JL. I don't have a Diablo sport suspension module although my understanding it mounts in the same location and is smaller than the oem module. My Challenger 1320 has the oem module and is tuned much differently than most of the others for drag racing. I'm told same as the Demon. The JL Audio install instructions for the Stealbox box claims it must be seated and bolted in its location for not only proper performance. I called JL Audio inquiring about fitment with the suspension module and they sent me a pictures of module relocation required for proper fitment per install instructions. I know many aftermarket subs like the Stealthbox are not hard mounted and just relying on a friction slip wedge fit so that didn't scare me away completely. Due to possible future warranty concerns I do not want to relocate the suspension module. In searching many pictures and comments of installs with the Stealth box in late Challengers with the module it seemed clear that the Stealth box wouldn't fully seat against the carpet and module in the fenderwell corner. Some said they had to trim the carpet floor to be able to open and close the floor lid without removing the Stealth box. I appreciate your opinion on the Stealth box performance compared to all others as this is the first verifiable comment to confirm that. I purchased the JL Audio powered sub ACS110LG-TW1 from Crutchfield so I still have time to exchange if after the install I'm disappointed with it. I could go with the Stealthbox in the future but with the information I've collected so far I'm hoping this ACS110LG-TW1 will simply give me the bass fill my system is lacking and since I don't have immediate plans to modify the rest of the system I didn't want to be overpowered with bass, if that's possible, lol!
Thanks again for your opinions and feedback.

 

[Diboblo]

Hello Diboblo,
Very interesting! Wishing I could have heard all iterations of your HK system. All I can go by is what the entire HK system sounded like in my first 2023 Challenger. Honestly I wasn't wanting for any changes in it. I couldn't find another Scat Pack last call Challenger with the different equipment I wanted and also with the HK stereo. If I could have I wouldn't be changing or adding a thing. That's the way it goes. Hoping the 10 speaker Alpine with this JL Audio ACS110LG-TW1 will give me comparable sound. If I may, would you care to comment on the patch connection to the 8 inch free air dual voice coil wiring in the rear deck. Some say leave the 8 inch sub disconnected. Others say leave it connected. Some say connect one voice call positive and negative to left channel input of JL amp and other voice coil positive and negative to right channel input of JL amp. How would you do it? Have you ever checked the voltage output available to the sub at high volume levels with the oem HK or Alpine system in the Charger or Challenger? One person mentioned with this specialized JL amp and very low ohm sub is designed to run on max 5.4 volts connected to high level signal. This was a specification I've never considered or thought about before.

Mine is an Alpine system. It's okay. Mostly I keep it low, so I can listen to the engine. LOL.

Any time you connect two speakers together, you are modifying the impedance. Unless you understand how that impacts the specific channel, on your amp, I would disconnect the OEM woofer. Replace one, with another.

Around volume level 26 your system is designed to defeat the dedicated bass output, on specific channels (3, 2, or 1). You can mitigate this roll off, through tuning. This is the stage I'm at, right now.