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Finally made it to the track

Indigo Joe

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#1
....and was able to make my first passes with the Redeye. 1200 miles on the clock. 3.09 gear.

Stiff headwind was as bad as I have ever had at that track, DA was not great, a little over 2000 near as I can tell. 73F, 29.02 un-corrected baro, and 47% humidity.

I made 3 passes and the 3rd was a waste, but the car bit pretty good on the 1st from idle and went 10.47. I didn't really expect that. Spun a little on the 2nd, but it is what it is. Muffed the line lock and burnouts but will focus on that another time.

Stock with the bar off and a little weight out.

Drag Stars and MT SR radials up front. Not as light as you might think. Weld 18 x 10 rear with 305 Street R's. I like the look of that combo a little better than stock.

Grandma's bead sealer seemed to work pretty good. :oops: 1 tire moved a little bit on the wheel but I think they might hold now. I let the tires sit for 3 days after mounting, but a week might have been better. I don't want to use Permatex when I need to stay on the good side of the only tire shop in town.

It was fun. Sorry for the poor vid quality.


9 4 2020 runs.jpg
 


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SilverBillet

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#2
Good 60’ time made a big difference!
 


vortecd

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We drove by the track around 2:00. Girlfriends uncle has a greenhouse just north of the there. I used to race at that track back in the 90's early 2000 but being it is over an hour drive and 131 is 25 minutes and a nicer track that is where I go
 


OP
Indigo Joe

Indigo Joe

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Thread Starter #4
I would have never thought of using Grandma's on the beads if I hadn't drank a jug of this shit first.
 


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DRAGRCR

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#5
....and was able to make my first passes with the Redeye. 1200 miles on the clock. 3.09 gear.

Stiff headwind was as bad as I have ever had at that track, DA was not great, a little over 2000 near as I can tell. 73F, 29.02 un-corrected baro, and 47% humidity.

I made 3 passes and the 3rd was a waste, but the car bit pretty good on the 1st from idle and went 10.47. I didn't really expect that. Spun a little on the 2nd, but it is what it is. Muffed the line lock and burnouts but will focus on that another time.

Stock with the bar off and a little weight out.

Drag Stars and MT SR radials up front. Not as light as you might think. Weld 18 x 10 rear with 305 Street R's. I like the look of that combo a little better than stock.

Grandma's bead sealer seemed to work pretty good. :oops: 1 tire moved a little bit on the wheel but I think they might hold now. I let the tires sit for 3 days after mounting, but a week might have been better. I don't want to use Permatex when I need to stay on the good side of the only tire shop in town.

It was fun. Sorry for the poor vid quality.


View attachment 24016
Really good 60 foot on the first run and you can tell the headwind is hurting the MPH.
 


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Indigo Joe

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Thread Starter #6
I have a couple more chances to go if the weather holds up.
.
 


DRAGRCR

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#7
LINE LOCK:


Get to the proper screen and be ready. Pull into the water and stop as directed by the track official. There is no time limit to be locked so you need to get setup as soon as you can and wait. So enable line lock on screen. LEFT FOOT on dead pedal on left side of floor board. Right foot smash brake pedal panic stop force. See pressure on DIC and when it is enough push OK button and release brake pedal AND WAIT. You do not need to press hard on OK button, because if you do and touch any of the up and down buttons the system may cancel. Now RIGHT FOOT above gas pedal but not touching pedal. If you press the gas pedal and release system may cancel. That INCLUDES if you start the burnout and for any reason stop, System WILL cancel. If you touch the brake pedal, System will cancel. So you hold foot above gas pedal and when given the signal to start your burnout you must commit and do your burnout and do not touch the brake pedal and do not touch up or down buttons. Any time system cancels you MUST take responsibility for control of the car. That means foot off gas and foot on brake pedal and stop the car and thumb off the OK button. Then count to 5 or more and system will reset and you can start all over. If you get frustrated or confused it will seem like an eternity. Just do it right and you will not have any issues.

Any time the system cancels the car will limp and you will have no power when hitting the gas pedal. You should immediately take responsibility and get in that mode of resetting the system. Then you can proceed with another attempt.

Honestly it took me a lot of limps and emails back and forth with Jim Wilder to finally get it to work every time and I decided to just not use it any more. I just do it the old fashioned way and power brake it. It does not hurt the brake pads or rotors as long as you are just doing the normal drag race burnout.
 


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Indigo Joe

Indigo Joe

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Thread Starter #8
Hey Ron thanks for the write up on that. Historically, I do great as long as I don't have more than ONE thing to do. I can see this would end up a clusterf__k no doubt and I'd be holding everyone up. For the time being, I will default to the old fasioned way which has worked for years, I just need to tip my drivers mirror down so I can see when my rear tires are in the box. You just saved me a lot of grief. I saved your write up for review. Thanks.
 


TNREDEYE

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#9
LINE LOCK:


Get to the proper screen and be ready. Pull into the water and stop as directed by the track official. There is no time limit to be locked so you need to get setup as soon as you can and wait. So enable line lock on screen. LEFT FOOT on dead pedal on left side of floor board. Right foot smash brake pedal panic stop force. See pressure on DIC and when it is enough push OK button and release brake pedal AND WAIT. You do not need to press hard on OK button, because if you do and touch any of the up and down buttons the system may cancel. Now RIGHT FOOT above gas pedal but not touching pedal. If you press the gas pedal and release system may cancel. That INCLUDES if you start the burnout and for any reason stop, System WILL cancel. If you touch the brake pedal, System will cancel. So you hold foot above gas pedal and when given the signal to start your burnout you must commit and do your burnout and do not touch the brake pedal and do not touch up or down buttons. Any time system cancels you MUST take responsibility for control of the car. That means foot off gas and foot on brake pedal and stop the car and thumb off the OK button. Then count to 5 or more and system will reset and you can start all over. If you get frustrated or confused it will seem like an eternity. Just do it right and you will not have any issues.

Any time the system cancels the car will limp and you will have no power when hitting the gas pedal. You should immediately take responsibility and get in that mode of resetting the system. Then you can proceed with another attempt.

Honestly it took me a lot of limps and emails back and forth with Jim Wilder to finally get it to work every time and I decided to just not use it any more. I just do it the old fashioned way and power brake it. It does not hurt the brake pads or rotors as long as you are just doing the normal drag race burnout.

Ron's way works. From what I've seen w my REWB it needs more burnout than one would expect regardless which tire it has on it. For me learning to use the lineloc in such a way that it'll work every time allowed me to do the necessary burnout where the lead foot method doesn't.
Btw, I have big thumbs so one of the biggest helps for me was switching to my index finger on the OK button. I never accidentally touch another button this way.
 


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#10
LINE LOCK:


Get to the proper screen and be ready. Pull into the water and stop as directed by the track official. There is no time limit to be locked so you need to get setup as soon as you can and wait. So enable line lock on screen. LEFT FOOT on dead pedal on left side of floor board. Right foot smash brake pedal panic stop force. See pressure on DIC and when it is enough push OK button and release brake pedal AND WAIT. You do not need to press hard on OK button, because if you do and touch any of the up and down buttons the system may cancel. Now RIGHT FOOT above gas pedal but not touching pedal. If you press the gas pedal and release system may cancel. That INCLUDES if you start the burnout and for any reason stop, System WILL cancel. If you touch the brake pedal, System will cancel. So you hold foot above gas pedal and when given the signal to start your burnout you must commit and do your burnout and do not touch the brake pedal and do not touch up or down buttons. Any time system cancels you MUST take responsibility for control of the car. That means foot off gas and foot on brake pedal and stop the car and thumb off the OK button. Then count to 5 or more and system will reset and you can start all over. If you get frustrated or confused it will seem like an eternity. Just do it right and you will not have any issues.

Any time the system cancels the car will limp and you will have no power when hitting the gas pedal. You should immediately take responsibility and get in that mode of resetting the system. Then you can proceed with another attempt.

Honestly it took me a lot of limps and emails back and forth with Jim Wilder to finally get it to work every time and I decided to just not use it any more. I just do it the old fashioned way and power brake it. It does not hurt the brake pads or rotors as long as you are just doing the normal drag race burnout.
you have no idea how much time and frustration you saved all of us members, thank you
 


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#11
....and was able to make my first passes with the Redeye. 1200 miles on the clock. 3.09 gear.

Stiff headwind was as bad as I have ever had at that track, DA was not great, a little over 2000 near as I can tell. 73F, 29.02 un-corrected baro, and 47% humidity.

I made 3 passes and the 3rd was a waste, but the car bit pretty good on the 1st from idle and went 10.47. I didn't really expect that. Spun a little on the 2nd, but it is what it is. Muffed the line lock and burnouts but will focus on that another time.

Stock with the bar off and a little weight out.

Drag Stars and MT SR radials up front. Not as light as you might think. Weld 18 x 10 rear with 305 Street R's. I like the look of that combo a little better than stock.

Grandma's bead sealer seemed to work pretty good. :oops: 1 tire moved a little bit on the wheel but I think they might hold now. I let the tires sit for 3 days after mounting, but a week might have been better. I don't want to use Permatex when I need to stay on the good side of the only tire shop in town.

It was fun. Sorry for the poor vid quality.


View attachment 24016
Congratulations on a great run a lot of us Red Eye people are looking for a time slip like that. Your car passed the audition!
 


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Indigo Joe

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Thread Starter #12
Thanks you guys for the input. Next time I take the tires down, an old time drag racer suggested cane sorghum may be a little stickier than Grandma's bead sealer lol. Anything to get out of heading to the tire shop with beads loaded with Permatex ! I will give it a whirl and see what happens :)
Pure Cane Sorghum
 


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#13
Getting close to the end of the race season, any updates?
 


DRAGRCR

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Getting close to the end of the race season, any updates?
He ran yesterday and made at least one very respectable pass that I know of........... Teaser.
 


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Indigo Joe

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Thread Starter #15
Well........ Dragrcr helped get me motivated to get my head back into the game by putting it in a vice and turning the screw until my attitude improved.

The weather data provided by drag times was probably from an airport 40 miles away. It was way off but this instrument is always close. I did guess at the humidity at about 70% but the baro was 29.06 and 56F. I figure the DA was about 930 or so give or take a few numbers. It was warming up and getting busy so I got 1 pass in and went back home figuring I wasn't gonna top that one the rest of the day.
 


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Indigo Joe

Indigo Joe

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Thread Starter #16
Left lane.... I picked the optimum time to run. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good. It felt strong. Stock. Just wheels and tires and front seat is in. Rear seat not. Mid Michigan Motorplex. BTW the tires didn't slip on the wheels a lick.
 


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fumanchu182

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#17
She's moving!
 


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Indigo Joe

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Thread Starter #18
Felt strong. I did continue my streak of making sure something went wrong by arriving with too much gas in the tank.....It gets better gas mileage than I thought it would. But, that could have been my friend I suppose. And thanks to dragrcr for the heads up on a couple of things.
 


EricG

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Nice pass - congrats! Way to represent.
 


vortecd

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Well........ Dragrcr helped get me motivated to get my head back into the game by putting it in a vice and turning the screw until my attitude improved.

The weather data provided by drag times was probably from an airport 40 miles away. It was way off but this instrument is always close. I did guess at the humidity at about 70% but the baro was 29.06 and 56F. I figure the DA was about 930 or so give or take a few numbers. It was warming up and getting busy so I got 1 pass in and went back home figuring I wasn't gonna top that one the rest of the day.
This is why I bought a Kestrel 5100 so I can document what it reads when I run. I have found drag times to be pretty close at 131 though. Still have 3 Saturday's left at 131. I will be at everyone the rain does not show up too. This weekend is looking 50/50
 




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