The thermal transfer of heat will always move toward the coolest area/material offered (I just taught this to my 6 year old last night about letting the heat out of the house - LOL), the rubber boot on the intake which is being cooled (very little) internally by the air moving through it, and although it is safe to say that the boundary layer along the inner wall of the intake boot is pretty much undisturbed or at the very least the air does not have an opportunity to stagnate in place for very long, even at lower engine speeds (idle) when the air mass is moving "slowly" through the tube. So while there is a significant amount of surface area on the inside of the tube, its ability to transfer the thermal gains to the moving volume of air mass (not just that resting against/near the wall) is pretty minimal. And in many cases the high IATs everyone sweats, and the associated rate of decline once the air mass begins moving quicker, is really more a factor of sensor rate recovery (a physical limitation in the parts design/materials/etc) than the actual temperature of the incoming air (which has already dropped once the throttle was cracked open). A high-end fast sampling thermocouple placed in the air stream would prove this.
The fact of the matter is controlling the heat radiating off the engine and into components managing air mass is a relatively minor concern in the stock system as the air intake tract is sealed away from the engine heat; and the warming of the air mass moving through the engine at speed is minimal before it is compressed by the supercharger (where most of the heated air mass into the engine occurs). The intercooler bricks and the "cool loop" A2W system pulls this heat away... hence why it is good practice to use this surface area to your advantage vs. putting a carbon fiber tube with an open filter on the end. This isn't air mass sitting in between the four walls of your house (accounting for thermal losses and gains throughout the year), it is moving and can only pick up so much temperature from simply travelling down a sealed tube. Aftermarket air intake tubes exposed to under hood air is a different story - because that is the induction of very hot air and it doesn't reach ambient again until the vehicle starts moving.
Those "fins" on the intake tube are for structure, not heat dissipation (the under hood temps are greater than the outside ambient air temps in a sealed system). The last thing you want is an air pump collapsing its access to an air source - kinda kills the overall efficiency, eh? I'd be more inclined to find a means to reflect the radiant heat away from the intake tract (isolating the source, adding physical insulation to the air box/tube, or creating an insulated layer of air (tube in a tube)) than changing the tube material itself... or adding more ribs for her pleasure.
Anyway, these are just my postulations - I have to go hit the gym now. Cheers!
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