FI Supercharger spacer and blanket issue

[Alain]

I bought the kit from one of the members in the old site about a year ago or so. i am finally getting around to installing the kit now.

As I get ready to do so I am learning that there have been instances where after install, the belt will “walk” itself onto the pulley snout.
supposedly this is due to the change in geometry caused by the added 10mm of height from the spacers.

I plan on reusing the stock belt since I won’t be changing my pulley.

have any of you head of this or experienced it?

 

[BULL]

I have not had this issue, I also haven't heard of it (not to say it didn't happen).

 

[BULL]

I also haven't seen any stress on the belt either (belt shavings are a clear sign of either slippage or trying to walk off of a pulley).

 

[Alain]

Thank you bull. i got the info from Team Demon (on the old forum). He seems like someone who would be in the know about this.

i got a little nervous but after scouring this site and the old one I haven’t found anyone who has run into this issue so I think I’m gonna go ahead with the install.

 

[Blkout]

I haven't read of this issue on this forum or the old Geico forum so if it happened, it certainly isn't common. If its not common, then it leads me to believe its not the product itself otherwise it would eventually happen to everyone using them.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Mine runs perfect on a 2.85 Litens, they only lift the blower 1/2”, that can’t change geometry that much. What can though is if someone didn’t use longer dowels and the Front of the blower shifted towards the passenger side, those long bolts grow allot when they heat up and their designed for just clamping duty not holding the blower square to 80+ horse power it takes to drive it at 20,000 rpms, the dowels are there for that. Well supposed to be if longer ones are used.

 

[BULL]

Mine runs perfect on a 2.85 Litens, they only lift the blower 1/2”, that can’t change geometry that much. What can though is if someone didn’t use longer dowels and the Front of the blower shifted towards the passenger side, those long bolts grow allot when they heat up and their designed for just clamping duty not holding the blower square to 80+ horse power it takes to drive it at 20,000 rpms, the dowels are there for that. Well supposed to be if longer ones are used.

I agree with this, but I will add as well, when I torqued mine down, it took MANY tq balancing passes around that bolt pattern before those bolts stabilized.

I can easily see where if someone only did one round of torquing, they may have not actually seated the blower down.

Plastic cold flows as well, so if you tq too quickly, you may have a false "seat".

.02

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

PS, their no fun getting out, I’d like to talk to the brainiac that put solid dowels in blind holes.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I agree with this, but I will add as well, when I torqued mine down, it took MANY tq balancing passes around that bolt pattern before those bolts stabilized.

I can easily see where if someone only did one round of torquing, they may have not actually seated the blower down.

Plastic cold flows as well, so if you tq too quickly, you may have a false "seat".

.02

You do the stepped torque of the bolts? 4, 11, 22 ft lbs I think from memory? I also oiled the threads and under the heads and washers, steel in alum threads like to grab if dry and give false torque/stretch on such a long bolt, bolt twists like a torsion spring instead of threading down in to the hole.

 

[BULL]

You do the stepped torque of the bolts? 4, 11, 22 ft lbs I think from memory? I also oiled the threads and under the heads and washers, steel in alum threads like to grab if dry and give false torque/stretch on such a long bolt, bolt twists like a torsion spring instead of threading down in to the hole.

Yes I did, but when I came back an hour later (or so) knowing that the material characteristics were what they are, I rechecked and the bolt torque was gone.

 

[Hpindy]

I have never had that issue . I have 10,000 miles and over 100 passes on them so far .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[BULL]

I have never had that issue . I have 10,000 miles and over 100 passes on them so far .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

After that initial retorque, mine have been fine.

Yes, I have specifically checked them.

 

[Hpindy]

After that initial retorque, mine have been fine.

Yes, I have specifically checked them.

I was referring to the spacers causing the belt issues . Your torque sequence and retorque recheck is proper installation in my books .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[SG.0002]

I bought the kit from one of the members in the old site about a year ago or so. i am finally getting around to installing the kit now.

As I get ready to do so I am learning that there have been instances where after install, the belt will “walk” itself onto the pulley snout.
supposedly this is due to the change in geometry caused by the added 10mm of height from the spacers.

I plan on reusing the stock belt since I won’t be changing my pulley.

have any of you head of this or experienced it?

I had adjust the idler to get on the belt after install and all else was fine.

SG

 

[Jack_Toepfer]

I don't know how raising something up 1/2 inch in the same plane would cause any belt walk. It may draw attention to a preexisting problem, however, because it could be amplified.

 

[Alain]

I agree with you fellers. After giving it some thought, I don’t see how elevating it 10mm in the same plane would cause the belt to walk.
the only thing that could be an issue is the supercharger being cocked one way or another after the installation.
i purchased longer dowels (24mm) to replace the OEM ones, that will ensure my supercharger goes back as close to OEM as possible.

two other questions.
1- did you guys use loctite to install the new bolts?

2- I bought a coolant refill / air purge tool to get out any air trapped inside the lines after install.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/coolant-refill-air-purge-tool/003466sch01/

My question is, do I have to empty ALL the coolant before using this tool? Or can I bleed the air out while there’s still coolant in the sys.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I didn’t use loctite, I actually used some oil on the threads and under the bolt heads to get better torque numbers as dry steel threads in dry aluminum and super long thin bolts twist like torsion springs, grab and chatter, etc.
If your plan is to completely remove the SC to work on it on the bench you can when removing the coolant lines quickly plug and cap each one at a time and the coolant loss is very minimal and easily purged of air with the bleeder on the return line on the coolant manifold. I used 2 plugs and 2 caps, be quick about it, I lost not even a cup of coolant apart and back together. These plugs on right went in the hoses the caps on the manifold.

 

[Alain]

I didn’t use loctite, I actually used some oil on the threads and under the bolt heads to get better torque numbers as dry steel threads in dry aluminum and super long thin bolts twist like torsion springs, grab and chatter, etc.
If your plan is to completely remove the SC to work on it on the bench you can when removing the coolant lines quickly plug and cap each one at a time and the coolant loss is very minimal and easily purged of air with the bleeder on the return line on the coolant manifold. I used 2 plugs and 2 caps, be quick about it, I lost not even a cup of coolant apart and back together. These plugs on right went in the hoses the caps on the manifold.
View attachment 15987

Thanks for the info on using motor oil on the threads and bolt heads. I thought by using oil/fluids on the threads it would affect the torque values.

what size are those plugs? I’d love to plug mine as well since I’ll definitely be taking the supercharger and putting it on my work bench.

from what i can see, the plug in the left is 7/8, what size is the one on the right? Same size?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Don’t know, they come off pipe and hydraulic fittings and such, I save all kinds of caps in a bag, I cap the injector inlets as well to keep crap out of them. They say 10 on them, I assume from a 5/8” fitting. They taper from from .750” to .850” OD, the caps ID is .785”, hope that helps. They fit inside on another as well

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

On oil on the threads, yes it will effect measured torque values but for how long these bolts are they stretch a bunch, your better off them getting a bit to tight cold as once hot they grow a bunch and if too loose because they stuck instead of spin at same torque wrench value setting you risk them leaking. I did them once dry and didn’t like how they felt skipping, jumping, chattering at final torque value. Removed them all, oiled them lightly and they torqued much more evenly and smoothly and just felt right. And that’s how I do them from then on. Think of doing it dry or wet and slippery, which is better lol