What's next....I need a better 60'

[Speedy!]

I seem to be stuck in the 1.5x 60' range. Car ran 9.83 at 140 in -600 DA and 10.059 at 140 in 4300 DA. Both runs different tracks different days had 1.52 60'. Stock suspension and 2.62 gears. Reminder I'm on a 2.72 litens pulley, RE motor, injectors, and tune. Car didn't spin on either run, but if I put more power down low it blows the MT 305/45 17 ET Rs off.

I'm looking for low 1.4s 60'. Mike gave me a tune tweak recently that I think helped in the higher DA runs, so maybe the 60' will be better on cold temps, but I'm thinking of some suspension changes to help.

I drive the car on the street, A LOT and do not want to give up any street handling or end up with a wallowy mushy ride.

I'm not a suspension expert, so what should I be looking at? If component changes I'd be looking at AAD stuff.

I like my brakes and do not want to mess with any 15" conversions, changing to lighter front calipers, etc so that's out.

 

[vortecd]

If you look from behind the tires seems to be more at an angle with some more the others. I notice it more with Challengers then Chargers. I would get adjustable arms to get the tires flatter on the ground

 

[BULL]

Have you documented what, if any, changes in your 60ft you've seen from removing mass?


Certainly you'll see gains in your E.T. with mass reduction, but maybe it's too small of a difference at the 60ft mark to be noticeable???

 

[Hpindy]

@Speedy!

I highly recommend the AAD "wheel hop eliminator kit" and the BMR cradle lock out kit . ( you already have the DIRS) . They are a great first step in reducing your 60's . Have the rear camber set to .5 + degrees and all other specs stock .

I have the demon springs and sway bars front and rear which helped too . My ride is still "tighter" then a demon . I have zero issues stopping and cornering in my car . I also have 2.62 gears and the same tire as you . But once they are done I'm stepping up to the 315's .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[Beast707]

I'd recommend the Pedal Commander and Fastman TB! However I'm a idiot and look to your YouTube videos for knowledge lol! I will say @Hpindy is right the AAD wheel hop setup is on my list of upgrades.

 

[WhipCat]

I was able to get into the mid to low 1.40’s with a set of 17” wheels and the 315/50/17 MT

I have mopar rear springs, BMR cradle lockout, BMR control arms, and (can’t remember exactly right now) some other bushings done in poly in the rear as well.

I’m back on the 2.62 after playing around with 3.09 and back.

I went to adjustable control arms from the fixed I had on previously, and had the car aligned with the wheel combo I was racing with, that way I was getting the best contact patch. thats very important.

 

[BULL]

I was able to get into the mid to low 1.40’s with a set of 17” wheels and the 315/50/17 MT

I have mopar rear springs, BMR cradle lockout, BMR control arms, and (can’t remember exactly right now) some other bushings done in poly in the rear as well.

I’m back on the 2.62 after playing around with 3.09 and back.

I went to adjustable control arms from the fixed I had on previously, and had the car aligned with the wheel combo I was racing with, that way I was getting the best contact patch. thats very important.

Somebody back on the old forums talked about having the alignment done with the car "preloaded" in some way to help with this concept of contact patch during launch.

I never really understood how, maybe with weight in the trunk during the alignment, or somehow straps on the suspension to hold it down??? How do you know how much? Pictures taken during launch? If this was road racing I know that there are systems that measure suspension travel, perhaps they can be adapted to measure maximum squat during launch and use that as a basis?

 

[WhipCat]

Somebody back on the old forums talked about having the alignment done with the car "preloaded" in some way to help with this concept of contact patch during launch.

I never really understood how, maybe with weight in the trunk during the alignment, or somehow straps on the suspension to hold it down??? How do you know how much? Pictures taken during launch? If this was road racing I know that there are systems that measure suspension travel, perhaps they can be adapted to measure maximum squat during launch and use that as a basis?

you just strap it down. You don’t have to over do it. Make sure you mark the arms so you can see if they shift. Ultimately they will.

when your at the track you can watch you tire marks from launch on the sticky track. You can actually tell from looking and by inspecting your tires after. Video replay helps.

 

[WhipCat]

Some guys put a bunch of weight in trunk Also. Different ways to go about it.

 

[Markp]

Like Hpindy said the Demon springs AAD kit are your best bet. That being said I think your being too aggressive in your launch. You should be able to get into the low to mid 1.4s without any suspension mods. I have gone 1.47 stock with just rear wheel and tires no skinnies. The trick I use is smash half throttle then put the pedal to the floor. This needs to be done in less then a second so think of it as saying "one two" fast. One is half throttle two is floored. So don't just smash it, half smash it then follow threw. This seems to work even on horrible prepped tracks. My 60s now no matter the track are usually 1.51-1.47 doing it this way. I figured this out because I was racing my car without many miles on it and I didn't want to shock the drive line too hard. First pass ever in the car doing it this way got me a 60 of 1.52. So I just kept speeding up the one two and it worked. By the end of the day I was doing 1.49-1.47 60s. I only smash it when the prep is really good. Try it let me know if it works for you.

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

I had 1.5x while my car was stock.
I agree with Mark about launching.

I call it Tap smash. Once you get use to it you will feel the hook so you put your foot to the floor!

Also Don't load up the converter. Just give it enough gas that you know some is going through.

What PSI are you running in your DRs?
MTs do not like to be overheated and be sure to roll out after the burnout. ( I'm sure you do)
Remember Kate's Burnouts at Challengerfest her car had Nittos they love to be heated. She loved making all the smoke lol.


After 4 years I added the HHP drag Springs.
They helped my 60 ft to a 1.37 from a 14x.

I have now added a Suncoast Converter and a SHR Trans. I'm looking to get even a better 60 ft once I get some seat time.

Linda

 

[Marc W]

Some of my thoughts... I prefer to use the more gear/more tire combination. By “more” I mean taller. You don’t want a taller tire with the 2.62. It’s too much. So you’re sacrificing that additional traction you can get with more tire due to that 2.62 gear ratio. I know some get better results with the 2.62, but those are super high hp cars that can pull that higher gear. Even they are using the 28” tall tire because the 30” is harder on the driveline with the 2.62. Speedy.... your car is not in the high hp category by comparison. I think you would benefit from the 3.09 with the 315/50-17. With my pulleyed stock motor (9.50@145) I was running low 1.40 sixtys with that tire/gear combination. If you don’t want to go that route yet..... the single biggest thing is alignment to get what you’ve got square and flat on the track coming off the line. To do that you HAVE to have adjustable control arms with stable bushings. Whether you can go with the top of the line (expensive) AAD Drag Set or something else (Spohn, BMR or whatever)... you need that zero toe/zero camber setting when the car transfers weight off the line. I think springs help with the initial weight transfer but I think alignment is more important. You can’t hook up if you’re only using part of your tire.

 

[oilburner]

anybody have any idea how much these cars squat on launch?? I want to add weight to lower back before alignment. already done all the good stuff back there .AAD, BMR, DIRS, demon springs etc. doesn`t look to be much when you watch these cars leave the line. 1/2 inch ??

 

[Marc W]

anybody have any idea how much these cars squat on launch?? I want to add weight to lower back before alignment. already done all the good stuff back there .AAD, BMR, DIRS, demon springs etc. doesn`t look to be much when you watch these cars leave the line. 1/2 inch ??

You’re right. They don’t squat much. Maybe one inch max. After observing this.... I reduced my positive camber to a .3 degree setting. It just doesn’t change as much as I previously thought. I would suggest anybody that also drives on the street or doesn’t leave that hard just go with a zero toe/zero camber and be done with it. This is what a 1.3 sixty looks like and the fender doesn’t even come close to being on the tire.

 

[Dman007]

Agree with most said here. I am running consistent 1.3 60' with this setup.

• Demon springs
• AJ's (Hemi Tuner Performance) - 15" conversion
• AAD - upper/lower and racing alignment
• MT 315/60/15 - ET Radial Pro
• 309 gear
• Shed more weight from the car

This setup will change your car experience. It takes a lot of seat time to get used to...

 

[oilburner]

so before I put the car on the rack I went an put 4 bags of water softener salt in the trunk ( centered ) an that brought down 1/2 inch to 3/4. AAD arms with stock settings an oem demon springs installed an RR was -1.1 degrees an LR was -.4 degrees . I compared length of stock arms to AAD arms an they where identical in length.

no wonder car can`t hook from the factory..............now the fun begins trying tabs to get it perfect.

 

[oilburner]

if any one ever wondered why the steering feels heavy on these cars , it`s no wonder the frt wheels on mine have 9 degrees of caster an is within spec. spec is 8 to 10 degrees.

 

[BULL]

if any one ever wondered why the steering feels heavy on these cars , it`s no wonder the frt wheels on mine have 9 degrees of caster an is within spec. spec is 8 to 10 degrees.

Not being intune with alignment specs, what would you say is typical for a car in this class?

 

[oilburner]

Not being intune with alignment specs, what would you say is typical for a car in this class?

I don`t ever recall a rear wheel drive car that calls for that much caster on the frt, normal to see 2,3 degrees. I could tell it had a lot just from the way it felt but this is the first time I checked it.
these cars are set up more to corner than go in a straight line. even the frt camber your within spec on the RF wheel up to -1.9 degrees .LF up to -1.5 degrees go look at the frt wheels on your car an you will see there in at the top (negative camber)

 

[Speedy!]

Thanks everyone, this is great information. The 3.09 thing is odd as a lot of folks move to that, then move back to 2.62s so I'm torn there. I don't plan on making much more HP with the car so I'm where it's probably gonna stay, so now I'm just trying to optimize.