Suspension upgrades for drag racing

[PaVaSteeler]

I have a 2019 Challenger 1320 that comes stock with the Demon adaptive suspension and the Drag Mode to utilize it.

I know little about suspensions, so I want to learn in order to put together a plan to improve putting to the ground what power my 1320 makes.

Without modifying or impacting the OEM adaptive suspension, what would you suggest I look into?

 

[Hpindy]

BMR cradle lock out kit and the DIRS differential brace . They will help take movement out of the rear suspension and help put the power to the ground .

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[PaVaSteeler]

BMR cradle lock out kit and the DIRS differential brace . They will help take movement out of the rear suspension and help put the power to the ground .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

I looked up the BMR kit you suggested. The install is beyond my capabilities; what would you Project it would cost to be installed, and what exactly would it do?

 

[Hpindy]

I looked up the BMR kit you suggested. The install is beyond my capabilities; what would you Project it would cost to be installed, and what exactly would it do?

It could be easily be done in 2 hours . It's pretty easy to install . It takes the movement out of the big rubber bushings and the the whole rear cradle from moving around.

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[SilverBillet]

Maybe just a P4D DRIS rear brace for starters would help? The car is already setup somewhat for drag racing.

 

[Hpindy]

Maybe just a rear brace for starters would help? It’s already setup somewhat for drag racing.

Every little bit helps when you are chasing the next 10th.

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[PaVaSteeler]

I’ve got the P4D Billet brace to install. Maybe a combination of that and adjustable trailing arms?

What would upgrading upper control arm achieve?

I’m not equipped to do bushing work, but understand the benefits of upgrading, so will save paying someone to install them for last.

 

[Hpindy]

I hear ya. I can't comment on control arms as I haven't tried them yet . The P4D brace is a great upgrade to keep the wheel hop away .

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[Marc W]

I would suggest that besides the DIRS you should do the lower trailing control arms and the adjustable toe links. Both are available from BMR. That will go a long ways toward stabilizing the movement that causes wheel hop. The adjustable upper control arms are all about changing your camber alignment. The cradle lock out bushings are also a big factor toward stabilizing everything back there but I would suggest doing the other stuff first and see if does the job. Very likely it will at your power level.

 

[PaVaSteeler]

I would suggest that besides the DIRS you should do the lower trailing control arms and the adjustable toe links. Both are available from BMR. That will go a long ways toward stabilizing the movement that causes wheel hop. The adjustable upper control arms are all about changing your camber alignment. The cradle lock out bushings are also a big factor toward stabilizing everything back there but I would suggest doing the other stuff first and see if does the job. Very likely it will at your power level.

Thanks. I had the Spohn fixed trailing arms on my last Challenger, along with the original P4D differential brace; never had an issue with wheel hop.

I'll have to contact Spohn as their website only shows parts for Challengers up to 2017; I don't see ANY "toe links" listed however. Can you recommend another vendor if Spohn doesnt make them? I am very reluctant to go with BMR after the post by cole3986 on that "other" forum regarding the structural failure of the BMR toe link on his HellCat. Granted, my car doesn't make the power a HC makes, but nonethless it deserves quality parts as well.

 

[Marc W]

Last I checked Spohn doesn’t make the toe links. The BMR toe links are nice and I have them on my car in addition to all of the Spohn adjustable control arms. I believe they are necessary to get rid of the rubber bushings that allow the toe alignment to move back and forth during launch. I’m not liking the BMR control arms either but at your power level that problem will never be a problem for you.

 

[vortecd]

I would do the brace but other then that the 1320 has no more power then any other 392. I have no suspension upgrades with high 1.6 60 ft times.and hook just fine.

If you are having traction issues I would change out the Nexen dr's the 1320's come with to a Mickey or M&H dr.

 

[spazzman72]

I would suggest that besides the DIRS you should do the lower trailing control arms and the adjustable toe links. Both are available from BMR. That will go a long ways toward stabilizing the movement that causes wheel hop. The adjustable upper control arms are all about changing your camber alignment. The cradle lock out bushings are also a big factor toward stabilizing everything back there but I would suggest doing the other stuff first and see if does the job. Very likely it will at your power level.

do you recommend the ( BMR non-adjustable or the single-adjustable lower trailing arms) looking to get those and the DIRS brace to help me deal with the wheelhop I've been fighting in my A8 scatpack.

 

[PaVaSteeler]

do you recommend the ( BMR non-adjustable or the single-adjustable lower trailing arms) looking to get those and the DIRS brace to help me deal with the wheelhop I've been fighting in my A8 scatpack.

The adjustable will cost more, but provide some flexibility in making adjustments when getting alignment done.

I can't emphasize enough that the DIRS brace was NOT designed to combat wheel hop; it appears to be a fortuitous added benefit however.

Look at tire pressure if the wheel hop you're addressing is at the drag strip. Drag radials need more air pressure, not less, to minimize wheel hop.

 

[Markp]

Rear adjustable chromoly end links and drag alignment.

 

[spazzman72]

the DIRS brace is really just to help protect the diff. when you get the wheelhop right ? not sure what changed on my car, i never really had any issues with the wheelhop until this fall ( maybe the cold track temps. affects this also ) , my set-up is the same except for a new set of M/T305 et R's... i run the tires at 23-25PSI. would rather the tires just spin that get that wheelhop..

 

[PaVaSteeler]

the DIRS brace is really just to help protect the diff. when you get the wheelhop right ? not sure what changed on my car, i never really had any issues with the wheelhop until this fall ( maybe the cold track temps. affects this also ) , my set-up is the same except for a new set of M/T305 et R's... i run the tires at 23-25PSI. would rather the tires just spin that get that wheelhop..

Yes, the DIRS brace is to protect the differential housing, and the rest of your car IF the differential grenades. It is an unintended benefit that the brace helps with wheel hop. I had the original brace on my '15 and definitely felt a difference with the rear when in situations where prior I would feel the rear bounce.

Temps, track prep and tire pressure all play into wheel hop. I had a well known expert from a well known vendor advise me on tire pressure recently (ironically, same MT 305 ET R's) and he advised higher the better (19 psi and above), stating the low psi is what contributes to DRs "hopping". I recently got the MT's and am still experimenting with psi - I rarely get wheel hop; my problem with these is they're spinning on my rims (Bravado Tributes, 18 x 10).

 

[Marc W]

do you recommend the ( BMR non-adjustable or the single-adjustable lower trailing arms) looking to get those and the DIRS brace to help me deal with the wheelhop I've been fighting in my A8 scatpack.

In my opinion.... the main culprit when it comes to wheel hop are the rubber “isolator” bushings in the rear. That includes the cradle and everything else back there. As far as alignment goes..... Negative camber decreases traction (whatever you do... don’t lower the car). Zero to slightly positive camber increases traction off the line, but...... only way to make adjustments for this is adjustable upper control arms. The other alignment factor is toe. A solid zero toe is a absolute must. The stock toe links are adjustable, but...... you’re not going to get a solid anything with all those rubber bushings allowing movement in every direction. At this point my opinion has moved to.... do the cradle bushings first. That’s the platform that everything else is attached to and it needs to be stable if you want to get a handle on wheel hop. I would also go with the BMR toe arms and links and then get the toe set to zero. As already said..... the dirs brace is a absolute must for the diff. It’s just simply protection for the case. With this done..... I would see how it does. With a scat you aren’t making crazy power so you may have the traction you need without needing to do the control arms. Full adjustables are expensive. I went with those first and still had wheel hop that I didn’t get under control until I went with the cradle and toe arms so that’s why I suggest doing it in the reverse order.

 

[hellno]

It could be easily be done in 2 hours . It's pretty easy to install . It takes the movement out of the big rubber bushings and the the whole rear cradle from moving around.

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Hpindy is right it’s really easy I had my employee do it wasn’t hard at all for me 😂😂

 

[spazzman72]

cool.thanks guys, looks like the cradle bushing and DIRS brace will be the first mods. need to do some research on installing those cradle bushing thou.