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B Woody Heat Shield

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#21
This is great. Could turn into a nice little profit for you.
you make it and I will buy one for sure.
Great job!
 


Diboblo

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#22
Got the masonite, for the final prototype.

It will be a minute, before i get back to this.

Stand by.



Bob
 


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Paladin06

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Thread Starter #23
Got the masonite, for the final prototype.

It will be a minute, before air get back to this.

Stand by.



Bob
So excited.. 1623017237734.png
 


vortecd

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#24
Could you use a Redeye airbox and cut the hole bigger?
 


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Diboblo

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#25
Could you use a Redeye air and cut the hole bigger?
Haven't laid my hands on one. That sounds like a good idea, too :)

Bob
 


Diboblo

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#26
The limiting factor, here, is going to be the material. Best price I can get, on 3mm thick 306mmx306mm sheet panel of carbon fiber, is $95.

Seems too spendy.

I was looking at Nomex hexagon cell CF board, in 1/4", but you're looking at $150 a copy. This is before I make a single cut.

I'm going to look into other heat resistant substrates, that may be more cost effective.

Stand by.

Bob
 


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#27
The limiting factor, here, is going to be the material. Best price I can get, on 3mm thick 306mmx306mm sheet panel of carbon fiber, is $95.

Seems too spendy.

I was looking at Nomex hexagon cell CF board, in 1/4", but you're looking at $150 a copy. This is before I make a single cut.

I'm going to look into other heat resistant substrates, that may be more cost effective.

Stand by.

Bob
Bob I applaud you in what you do for the Hellcat community.
I'm sure there would be people willing to pay for anything that's quality and will get the job done so please consider all the options that we can choose from. Thx Jeff
 


MikeD1

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#28
The limiting factor, here, is going to be the material. Best price I can get, on 3mm thick 306mmx306mm sheet panel of carbon fiber, is $95.

Seems too spendy.

I was looking at Nomex hexagon cell CF board, in 1/4", but you're looking at $150 a copy. This is before I make a single cut.

I'm going to look into other heat resistant substrates, that may be more cost effective.

Stand by.

Bob
Not sure what your rough dimensions are for this but what about 1/4" Plexiglas ?? An 18 x 24 sheet is ~$30, 12 x 12 is like 1/2 that price.
If it being clear bothers you, you could always stick some vinyl wrap on it for a few bucks more ! PPL could do that to customize it to the color they want, even carbon fiber (like the OE stripes).
 


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Paladin06

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Thread Starter #29
Bob I applaud you in what you do for the Hellcat community.
I'm sure there would be people willing to pay for anything that's quality and will get the job done so please consider all the options that we can choose from. Thx Jeff
I’m a believer in you get what you pay for. Personally I never go cheap but, that’s just me.
 


Diboblo

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#30
Not sure what your rough dimensions are for this but what about 1/4" Plexiglas ?? An 18 x 24 sheet is ~$30, 12 x 12 is like 1/2 that price.
If it being clear bothers you, you could always stick some vinyl wrap on it for a few bucks more ! PPL could do that to customize it to the color they want, even carbon fiber (like the OE stripes).
I looked into heat resistant acrylic.

Factors on the table:

Vibration
Fatigue (failure from)
Thermal resistance
Thermal cycles

Let me say that I'm not a fan of these heat shields, but if I can help out, I'll put some effort into it.

I understand their barrier concept, but it leaves a lot on the table. I've identified a number of issues it has, as far as a "heat shield", and I'm trying keep those in mind, with my design... The main one being, the intake filter is getting radiant heat from the exhaust manifold. A "shield" should mitigate that. Could be as simple as the aluminum heat shields used under the car...

Every square inch, of the engine compartment, is heat soaked... by nature of it's being what it is... a giant thermal box.

I'm working on it.

Stand by.




Bob
 


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Paladin06

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Thread Starter #31
I looked into heat resistant acrylic.

Factors on the table:

Vibration
Fatigue (failure from)
Thermal resistance
Thermal cycles

Let me say that I'm not a fan of these heat shields, but if I can help out, I'll put some effort into it.

I understand their barrier concept, but it leaves a lot on the table. I've identified a number of issues it has, as far as a "heat shield", and I'm trying keep those in mind, with my design... The main one being, the intake filter is getting radiant heat from the exhaust manifold. A "shield" should mitigate that. Could be as simple as the aluminum heat shields used under the car...

Every square inch, of the engine compartment, is heat soaked... by nature of it's being what it is... a giant thermal box.

I'm working on it.

Stand by.




Bob
1623095310320.png
 


Diboblo

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#32
LOL

Bob
 


jroyk

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#33
I looked into heat resistant acrylic.

Factors on the table:

Vibration
Fatigue (failure from)
Thermal resistance
Thermal cycles

Let me say that I'm not a fan of these heat shields, but if I can help out, I'll put some effort into it.

I understand their barrier concept, but it leaves a lot on the table. I've identified a number of issues it has, as far as a "heat shield", and I'm trying keep those in mind, with my design... The main one being, the intake filter is getting radiant heat from the exhaust manifold. A "shield" should mitigate that. Could be as simple as the aluminum heat shields used under the car...

Every square inch, of the engine compartment, is heat soaked... by nature of it's being what it is... a giant thermal box.

I'm working on it.

Stand by.




Bob
My GTO had the ECU just inches from the exhaust manifold. It had a cheap-ass foil faced piece of fiber board separating the two. Not elegant, but it was still in good shape after 11 years and 40,000 miles.
 


Hickster

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#34
Coming from an industrial insulator amonst other trades. Best and cheapest insulation wood bee 2 inches of what they call mineral wool. What we used on power houses good to up to 1,200 degrees F. very inexspensive. Not knowing your heat load you can get what ever thickness you need and multi layer it if need be. This can be held in place with anchor pins and washers glued in place. Finished with alumium .016 metal flat stock. Let the pointed end of the anchor pins protrude the insulation into and thru the metal then use your rounded 1 inch rounded washers to hold the insulation and metal together. BOB knows what I am talkin about. Very cheap, looks good, shiny, can take abuse, and best hot insulation you can purchase. Then there is Armacell 2,000. Rubber, glued in place and painted for finish. Glue is $50 a pint, rubber is $20 sf. Works, easy to manuver with, paint any color, but will not take a beating. Will neeed to finish with .016 sheet metal. Metal can be cut easly but to go any thinner .010 is like paper and want take a beating. Depends operating tempt. Send me a PM if want more info. Wish I could be hands on for ya but a bit difficult from here. Easy operation if I were there. Find a local insulator to help. Want cost that much if he knows what he is doing. gettem Bob.
Hickster
 


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Paladin06

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Thread Starter #35
Coming from an industrial insulator amonst other trades. Best and cheapest insulation wood bee 2 inches of what they call mineral wool. What we used on power houses good to up to 1,200 degrees F. very inexspensive. Not knowing your heat load you can get what ever thickness you need and multi layer it if need be. This can be held in place with anchor pins and washers glued in place. Finished with alumium .016 metal flat stock. Let the pointed end of the anchor pins protrude the insulation into and thru the metal then use your rounded 1 inch rounded washers to hold the insulation and metal together. BOB knows what I am talkin about. Very cheap, looks good, shiny, can take abuse, and best hot insulation you can purchase. Then there is Armacell 2,000. Rubber, glued in place and painted for finish. Glue is $50 a pint, rubber is $20 sf. Works, easy to manuver with, paint any color, but will not take a beating. Will neeed to finish with .016 sheet metal. Metal can be cut easly but to go any thinner .010 is like paper and want take a beating. Depends operating tempt. Send me a PM if want more info. Wish I could be hands on for ya but a bit difficult from here. Easy operation if I were there. Find a local insulator to help. Want cost that much if he knows what he is doing. gettem Bob.
Hickster
You never cease to amaze me. Thanks for your input. ;-)
 


Diboblo

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#36
Coming from an industrial insulator amonst other trades. Best and cheapest insulation wood bee 2 inches of what they call mineral wool. What we used on power houses good to up to 1,200 degrees F. very inexspensive. Not knowing your heat load you can get what ever thickness you need and multi layer it if need be. This can be held in place with anchor pins and washers glued in place. Finished with alumium .016 metal flat stock. Let the pointed end of the anchor pins protrude the insulation into and thru the metal then use your rounded 1 inch rounded washers to hold the insulation and metal together. BOB knows what I am talkin about. Very cheap, looks good, shiny, can take abuse, and best hot insulation you can purchase. Then there is Armacell 2,000. Rubber, glued in place and painted for finish. Glue is $50 a pint, rubber is $20 sf. Works, easy to manuver with, paint any color, but will not take a beating. Will neeed to finish with .016 sheet metal. Metal can be cut easly but to go any thinner .010 is like paper and want take a beating. Depends operating tempt. Send me a PM if want more info. Wish I could be hands on for ya but a bit difficult from here. Easy operation if I were there. Find a local insulator to help. Want cost that much if he knows what he is doing. gettem Bob.
Hickster
I have a slab of 1" mineral wool. Not a bad idea!

I'm wrapping up my initial design, but that may not be the final design.

I appreciate your input, brother.

Stay well.

Bob
 


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#37
I installed an aFe CAI last night. It comes with a metallic heat shield which looks to close off the intake area fairly well. I’m sure the metal will conduct some heat through at normal speeds but at higher speeds it should pull more exterior air in.
I mainly bought it to hear the SC better. ;) 15AA0179-8D5D-400C-A2F0-F8B2E4983366.jpeg ED58EBC2-E9FE-408A-9CFD-13686C168744.jpeg
 


vortecd

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#38
I installed an aFe CAI last night. It comes with a metallic heat shield which looks to close off the intake area fairly well. I’m sure the metal will conduct some heat through at normal speeds but at higher speeds it should pull more exterior air in.
I mainly bought it to hear the SC better. ;) View attachment 46359 View attachment 46360
Looks like they changed the piece that goes from the throttle body to the intake tube with one that can flex some. Looking on their site they also show a piece that doesn't have the according style ribs. I'm curious if that piece could replace the stock one?

It looks like a nice intake overall. I would like to test one at the track if I ever get a chance
 


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2017 Redline HC

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#39
Looks like they changed the piece that goes from the throttle body to the intake tube with one that can flex some. Looking on their site the also show a piece that doesn't have the according style ribs. I'm curious if that piece could replace the stock one?

It looks like a nice intake overall. I would like to test one at the track if I ever get a chance
It’s a very flexible silicone boot that attaches to the throttle body. I’ll be keeping an eye on my intake air temps when I get it out. First I have to drop the F%$*ing belly pan to retrieve a screw I dropped last night…
 


vortecd

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It’s a very flexible silicone boot that attaches to the throttle body. I’ll be keeping an eye on my intake air temps when I get it out. First I have to drop the F%$*ing belly pan to retrieve a screw I dropped last night…
Long magnet and and look through the wheel. Had to do the same thing awhile back
Telescoping style is a must to have around for things like this:)
 




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