All about the suspension

[Unholy707]

Alright guys, looking for some pointers.

not going to run the car again until I make some changes

More Power I think is off the board right now, I should have plenty to go 9.5/9.6.

I have cradle lockout , rear sway bar end links and a diff brace - that’s it.

cutting a 1.5 flat 60’, I think my 3.70 is to blame. Consistently running 9.90 or 9.8 @ 142/141. This is what I’m thinking

- 3.09 rear diff
- adjustable camber arms (rear)
- menscer coil overs (front and back)

anyone here run this combo? What’s your 60’ like? I have 315/50r17 MT on 17x10 beadlocks. Should be making close to 900 at the wheels.

I’d really appreciate any advice, or tried and true setups anyone has experience with.

thanks again

 

[Hatermkr]

I had a 3:90 shipped to me on accident when I bought my billet diff. Switched to 3:09 no change in et or mph.
When my car was more stock went down the track every pass This is my rear alignment pulling down the rear end like it’s leaving the line. Trans in sport Susp in street. Held traction button in to turn that all off.

 

[Unholy707]

I had a 3:90 shipped to me on accident when I bought my billet diff. Switched to 3:09 no change in et or mph.
When my car was more stock went down the track every pass This is my rear alignment pulling down the rear end like it’s leaving the line. Trans in sport Susp in street. Held traction button in to turn that all off.

View attachment 104619 View attachment 104620

So you ran the same 60’ with a 3.90 as a 3.09?

 

[Hatermkr]

So you ran the same 60’ with a 3.90 as a 3.09?

Yes my car never hooked

 

[Unholy707]

Yes my car never hooked

So what did you change to help it?

 

[vortecd]

Don't think the springs and shocks are needed at this power level. Jon is in the 8's and I'm in the low 9s with stock stuff. Gears need to be changed and AAD arms added

I run 2.62 gears and have been 1.33 leaving in 1st and 1.39 leaving in 2nd. I'm at a higher power level though

 

[catdad]

So you guys running 1.49 60ft and below what are you launching at. Are you using launch control? Also whats your approx power

 

[Hpindy]

I suggest a 3.09 gear with the 315/50/17 and with a 2.62 gear the 305/45/17.
That 3.70 is wayyyy too much for the A8.
The AAD arms will help and set the canber to 0.25+ on both sides with you in the seat .

That alone should get you decent 60's



Sent from my SM-S901W using Tapatalk

 

[vortecd]

So you guys running 1.49 60ft and below what are you launching at. Are you using launch control? Also whats your approx power

I try to launch just above idle so there is no slack in the driveline. I have been 1.33 with 315s and 2.62s. My car traps around 150 at 4700 lbs whatever HP level that is

 

[Unholy707]

I just stab it at idle, any attempt to put some rpm above idle I just spin even with 15psi in the tires

 

[Hatermkr]

I just stab it at idle, any attempt to put some rpm above idle I just spin even with 15psi in the tires

Try more tire pressure I’m at 19 on mine

 

[Unholy707]

Will regular hellcat axles work with the Redeye 3.09?

 

[Unholy707]

Try more tire pressure I’m at 19 on mine

I ran at 18 and same thing unfortunately..

 

[moparjim]

Will regular hellcat axles work with the Redeye 3.09?

Yes

 

[moparjim]

So you guys running 1.49 60ft and below what are you launching at. Are you using launch control? Also whats your approx power

I could tell you but then you would be another one calling me a liar.🤣🤣
I do pretty much what vortecd does to launch. I cut a couple of 1.48's on Friday.
No launch control.

 

[Marc W]

If you’re looking for what’s most important (bang for the buck) here are my thoughts…. A stable rear platform that provides the alignment you want and keeps it there at launch and going down the track is primary. To get that… your control arms have to be adjustable. They also need to be stable in that they don’t allow unwanted movement. What you use is up to you. We all know what the gold standard in that department is. My thoughts on the cradle is… I want it locked down. I was surprised that Z doesn’t. I get what he said about having some shock absorption, but some have seen enough movement there to cause problems with the driveshaft and transmission. If I remember right…. didn’t DSS state that they won’t warranty their driveshafts if you can’t show cradle lockouts. I know Dave had something to say about the subject related to transmission issues. Number two in my book is a 15” wheel/tire. The added sidewall puts so much more tire “on” the track and absorbs more of the initial hit, making it less violent that a 17. It is a noticeably softer leave. The 15 is more tunable with air pressure and there is a much wider selection of sizes and weights than the 17. They’re also cheaper. I don’t think the shocks are going to get you much until you are at a much higher power level. Not saying that if properly set up they wouldn’t help, but at that price, the bang for the buck factor is coming in last. When my car was still IRS at 4550 lbs, I ran consistent high 1.2 to low 1.3 sixty’s with the AAD package, lockouts, Scat 1320 springs and stock shocks front and rear. Tire was the same 315 Radial Pro I’m running now. Example three years ago….

 

[Unholy707]

If you’re looking for what’s most important (bang for the buck) here are my thoughts…. A stable rear platform that provides the alignment you want and keeps it there at launch and going down the track is primary. To get that… your control arms have to be adjustable. They also need to be stable in that they don’t allow unwanted movement. What you use is up to you. We all know what the gold standard in that department is. My thoughts on the cradle is I want it locked down. I was surprised that Z doesn’t. I get what he said about having some shock absorption, but some have seen enough movement there to cause problems with the driveshaft and transmission. If I remember right…. didn’t DSS state that they won’t warranty their driveshafts if you can’t show cradle lockouts. I know Dave had something to say about the subject related to transmission issues. Number two in my book is a 15” wheel/tire. The added sidewall puts so much more tire “on” the track and absorbs more of the initial hit, making it less violent that a 17. It is a noticeably softer leave. The 15 is more tunable with air pressure and there is a much wider selection of sizes and weights than the 17. They’re also cheaper. I don’t think the shocks are going to get you much until you are at a much higher power level. When my car was still IRS at 4550 lbs, I ran consistent high 1.2 to low 1.3 sixty’s with the AAD package, lockouts, Scat 1320 springs and stock shocks front and rear. Tire was the same 315 Radial Pro I’m running now. Example three years ago…. View attachment 104629

Well there you have it, radial pro is a 60 tall 15” tire lol.

 

[Unholy707]

My tires are still newish have 8 or 10 passes on them, no ready to make the jump to a 15 yet. So would you try getting the camber dialed in before going to a 15”? Btw, I spun the tire on my beadlocks somehow 1/8th of an inch. Wrinkle city. But they still spun

 

[Unholy707]

Yes

So my 2015 factory axles will work with a 2019+ Redeye 3.09? Just want to make sure here

 

[moparjim]

So my 2015 factory axles will work with a 2019+ Redeye 3.09? Just want to make sure here

Yes they will. As will a Redeye axle for in an original 2015 diff. My friend just did that when he snapped an axle.
They are interchangeable 100%.