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Unholy707

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I
I know I have pulled mine a dozen times in the car.
ll see if I can find the pictures, no way it was coming out. And realized even if somehow I pried on something to get it out, no way was getting it back on with a new gasket that way. If you have a truck I’m all for it, but there was just no room. Needed extra inch, maybe / bit less
 


Unholy707

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I no will pull mine when I get a lift free takes 20 mins
Please video lol, it would not come out. Maybe I had to dip it below the crank pulley, pull it forward a little so that the crank pulley is in the pan, push it back up flush, then slide forward. But as I recall, back was still hitting the crossmember, wrestled with it for a bit. I got it back in in under an hour
 


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fumanchu182

fumanchu182

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Y’all are wild today. Asked installer to ask builder for a full refund. Was fun while it lasted. Going to be putting the old motor back in myself possibly. Not thrilled about having the old motor in but it is what it is.
 


Unholy707

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Y’all are wild today. Asked installer to ask builder for a full refund. Was fun while it lasted. Going to be putting the old motor back in myself possibly. Not thrilled about having the old motor in but it is what it is.
If it ain’t broke…
 


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Oh the old motor is broke, just the only option I have till I can financially recover from all this.
 


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Please video lol, it would not come out. Maybe I had to dip it below the crank pulley, pull it forward a little so that the crank pulley is in the pan, push it back up flush, then slide forward. But as I recall, back was still hitting the crossmember, wrestled with it for a bit. I got it back in in under an hour
IMG_6408.jpeg
it comes out
 


Unholy707

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That’s as far down as I could drop it. The back still doesn’t clear.
 


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Should have taken you up on the bet 😅
 


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That’s as far down as I could drop it. The back still doesn’t clear.
Yes it does. You need to rotate the crank your hitting the counter weight
 


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fumanchu182

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So what's the verdict on this?

In other news have an appointment early Thursday morning. We are going to attempt the break in procedure again, without a lot of idling and what not.
 


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So what's the verdict on this?

In other news have an appointment early Thursday morning. We are going to attempt the break in procedure again, without a lot of idling and what not.
Break it in like a new clutch, dump it at 5k lol
 


16GoManGoHC2

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So what's the verdict on this?

In other news have an appointment early Thursday morning. We are going to attempt the break in procedure again, without a lot of idling and what not.
What for oil you have in it?
 


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16GoManGoHC2

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Was asking about your oil pan issue.

View attachment 110106
Ahhhh, yes, I remember the picture, this may be even the second time I’m asking lol. Sorry about that if that’s the case. Just making sure you used a break in oil not a full synthetic oil.
if you have glazed the cylinders due to improper break in the only way to break through that stuff is to run a ball hone in it and hone it off which means you would have to drop the Pistons out. I have seen an old trick of using a powdered cleanser work to remove such glaze but not in a car with a supercharger. If it was a final last ditch effort for an engine that was destined to come out Anyways, I would be tempted to give that a try but damn that’s extreme. Total Seal makes s product called Quick Seat that is a super fine abrasive used for first start break in but it needs to be applied by hand to the cylinder walls before putting the pistons in, but it’s a similar concept to using a cleanser in a running engine. I wish there was something we could do to help you out of this pickle. Tough to watch a fellow hellcat brother in pain and feel helpless to help.
 


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Boraxo was the stuff of the 70’s!
 


Unholy707

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Was asking about your oil pan issue.

View attachment 110106
I’d be interested to see what the builder has to say about that valve. Even if you are able to get the rings to seat, that valve looked trashed and needs lapped
 


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I’d be interested to see what the builder has to say about that valve. Even if you are able to get the rings to seat, that valve looked trashed and needs lapped
I think for money spent replace this thing with a new one. Problem is builder not responsible for break in
 


Unholy707

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I think for money spent replace this thing with a new one. Problem is builder not responsible for break in
Agreed, bit of a grey a area. I guess that would fall on installer. But would incorrect break in do that to the back of the valve?
 


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Agreed, bit of a grey an area. I guess that would fall on installer. But would incorrect break in do that to the back of the valve?
I agree with the valve.
Some thing has to be up rings installed the right way?
I have idled engines for ever getting coolant to burp and I have beat the shit out of them. Never had a ring problem
 




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