Uneven wear on DR's

[Decay]

HUGE amount of info!!
Thanks for the come backs.
I have my work cut out.

 

[Marc0779]

This is the thread I got the picture from I posted a bit ago, Marc I’ve been looking for thread you first posted this in to confirm it was the numbers I was looking for, I knew eventually you’d come across a alignment thread and post again, THANK YOU!!

I use the aad arms I have over 500 runs on them and my alignment has not changed I have seen quite a few failures with the bmr stuff I used sphoon arms before these they worked well but I would have to check and tighten the locknut's often,all arms have to be adjusted the same length start with a 1\4 inch added to all arms,it is labor intensive you will need to warn your alighnment shop it will make a huge difference in tracksion,I recommend the aad arms I have pounded on them for over a year car does high 1.2 60's all day.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Marc, thanks for the added input. But now I wonder if I should even waste my time installing the BMR stuff? When one fails what’s the result? Uncontrollable vehicle or? I’m 860 wheel, best 60’ so far on 17” 315/50 MT Street R’s 1.51. I don’t want to create myself a headache, should I look into the AAD stuff at my power level?

 

[Marc0779]

Marc, thanks for the added input. But now I wonder if I should even waste my time installing the BMR stuff? When one fails what’s the result? Uncontrollable vehicle or? I’m 860 wheel, best 60’ so far on 17” 315/50 MT Street R’s 1.51. I don’t want to create myself a headache, should I look into the AAD stuff at my power level?

Yes once you set up the aad you are done,if i have not broken them no one will,i usually break everything.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Does breaking a BMR arm tear things up or get uncontrollable if such happens? I just looked up the AAD stuff, salty, but that’s the price of one and done I guess. I wish I knew about them before buying all this BMR stuff. Which arm is the weak link in the BMR stuff? I assume you broke them before?

 

[Hpindy]

I am using the AAD arms also . I used them before and really liked them so I got them again . I think BMR have beefed up their parts and you will be fine but will need th check the lock nuts often . I have seen them come loose on a few cars . Also I believe the BMR stuff doesn't break it just bends .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

That’s a good note, the BMR arms I have are the on car adjustable ones, hopefully they are the strongest of their offerings? I’ll be keeping my eyes open for AAD stuff now, didn't know about their stuff before.

 

[Bboyd]

Bmr rear suspension along with cradle bushings installed last week, with 4 wheel alignment.. seem to have taken wheel hope out on the street anyway. car seems to plant a lot better. I'm hearing some sort of clang? its not bad but its there, anyone else have that problem? test and tune canceled for today, but we will see how it does at the track when we get to go? maybe? someday?

 

[Marc0779]

That’s a good note, the BMR arms I have are the on car adjustable ones, hopefully they are the strongest of their offerings? I’ll be keeping my eyes open for AAD stuff now, didn't know about their stuff before.

I have seen them bend and my friend with a turbo charger just snapped one at the threaded nut foot braking in his driveway and tore up his cradle..

 

[Speedy!]

AAD is where it's at. Great parts. I've talked to Parker at length at Challengerfest and he definitely knows his stuff.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Damn, back on the fence now again

 

[Finface]

This alignment took adjustable four corners by AAD, plus the BMR rear toe adjustable items. It ran a 3.3 second 0-60 and 11 sec flat on the street with street tires. It don't flipping hop anymore either. It feels out of this world to drive now, big difference from stock.

View attachment 16398

DGatzby,

So if someone hypothetically bought your same parts for installation on an identical REWB, and they had gotten 12" wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 4's, could they print this sheet and tell the aligner to "make it so"? Were these desired values, or the values after the alignment? I'm sorry but I just don't much about this stuff!

Also, do you anticipate the staggered tire width set up and slightly different Michelins (2's versus the 4's you had on for the alignment) will require any fine-tuning compared to the four square 12" alignment?

Best,

Finface

 

[DGatzby]

DGatzby,

So if someone hypothetically bought your same parts for installation on an identical REWB, and they had gotten 12" wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 4's, could they print this sheet and tell the aligner to "make it so"? Were these desired values, or the values after the alignment? I'm sorry but I just don't much about this stuff!

Also, do you anticipate the staggered tire width set up and slightly different Michelins (2's versus the 4's you had on for the alignment) will require any fine-tuning compared to the four square 12" alignment?

Best,

Finface

That alignment was done with a set of 305/35's on the OEM 11" wheels. Jury is out on the 12" wide setup. I just mounted them up and will be shaking it out next Sat-Sun. I just did a drive and warmed them up, and checked the temps, I was surprised by higher temps on the inside of all four corners, even after I was throwing it around pretty good. I know 12" wide rears with some 345/30's work. The PS4S's returned some excellent acceleration times. Several attempts on that last drive this afternoon, I tried to get the Cup 2's to break loose at speeds above 30-40, those are also 345/30's on 12" wide wheels, it was biting down just fine. She is ready to lap. It should come out of the corners with the best of them.

So a good alignment tech, with all those adjustments should be able to simply put it in the middle of the specified ranges. You should not need to tell them to do that if they are proud of their work.

 

[Marc W]

It’s a lot easier to feel good about spending thousands of dollars when you get a big hp number on the dyno to show you what you just paid for. You step on the gas and the tires go up in smoke and you go yeah there’s that money! But when it comes to getting down the track and not breaking stuff you need to spend what it takes to do that too..... and it ain’t cheap. I had the Spohn chromoly adjustable arms on mine. I had no issues with those. My solution to the locking nuts getting loose was a big glob of gorilla goop on each one of them. Ugly as hell but it works. I’m at the point now where the parts, including the rear suspension, are taking a hit like never before. Doing transbrake launches off a 2Step to a IRS in a heavy car like this is off the chart. So... the best of the best is called for. The AAD setup is incomparable. The +.5 camber and +.1 toe settings will get the job done on the starting line and not have a negative impact down track. When the car squats (they actually don’t squat very much) on the hit you will be close to zero straight up and down and side to side. The AAD’s have a unique adjustment design. They use numbered tabs to adjust the arms in and out. Once those tabs are locked in place, they aren’t moving... ever. Here are some pics. One shows the adjustment tab on one of the upper control arms. You can see the little notches in the tab. That is the number.

 

[Speedy!]

Suspension should probably have been the first thing I did but I like HP so it will end up being last. I'll be talking to Parker at AAD at CF in May on next steps.

 

[Decay]

Here's my deal.
I had promised myself not to do a GD thing until the time slips were coming in so I could do some scientific assessment .
And here I am.
Tracks are closed and I have time on my hands.
This is a bad combo.
I realize that this is probably a good mod but I am going to wait until I start collecting time slips so I have a way to measure and correct what I am doing.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

If you have the funds and now the time do it!!! It’s needed no doubt, don’t wait until your tires are shot but only half worn out (from uneven wear) and add another 500$ to the bill.
My only dilemma is to use the BMR stuff I just acquired or sell it all and just go with the ADD stuff from the get go.
Want a deal on some BMR stuff?? All 3 rear links, 6 links total, 3 per side.

 

[oilburner]

on AADs website they show 2 style bushings ,which one is prefered does one transfer more road rash,noise than the other.

 

[Bboyd]

i just did BMR last week all arms along with cradle bushings, it made a huge difference, no will hop and it feels planted. not sure how it will hold up at the track, but we will found out? ill get some pics and post!!!

 

[DGatzby]

Full tilt rear IRS upgrade for the lapping crowd to help with our apparent handicap there. I have AAD on the top arms, I really like the BMR toe rod. I did NOT like the BMR tension rods yesterday. I replaced another set of arms I had on it. The spindle end of the BMR arm was about 1/8" more wide than the OEM bushing there. WTF BMR, new measurements, or did you not send me some necessary hardware? -uck it, I squeezed it down. If it looks like shit after a session, I will have spares with me and I'll be a bitch! I also have the Whiteline bushings and the big differential brace our brothers on the Forums have made for us. The DP rear two piece rotor is also installed for the viewing pleasure here. No hop any longer, I have even tried to get it to hop, it is really fun to drive with some large meats out back. The NVH on the street is NOT any greater with all the changes!




I also have the AAD adjustable arms up front with some other goodies to drive these 325/30's. Bolted on this set yesterday with the change in brakes to track it next weekend. Yes, I will wash the bugs off and give it a nice bath this week. Some alcohol presoak melts them off that wrap on the front bumper.