Build progress

[Unholy707]

It’s the back part that’s touching. Before I torque them down and crush the gasket, I want to make sure that’s going to be enough room for engine movement. If now, it comes out and I grab the sledge hammer to beat that rib in.

 

[Unholy707]

I have 1/4” spacers dropping my cradle. I think it would be worse without the spacer in the cradle. I could possible loosen the trans crossmember and see if I can shift the engine over a little, since it because more narrow on the passenger side as you go to the back. Open to suggestions l, appreciate it

 

[Unholy707]

I see @16GoManGoHC2 lurking, maybe he has some thoughts 🤔

 

[Unholy707]

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I see @16GoManGoHC2 lurking, maybe he has some thoughts 🤔

My JBA 1 7/8” Cat Forward CARB approved shortie headers (yes, my 1050-1100 wheel M6 is fully emission's compliant yet lol) and they only had about 1/8” of clearance to the tower ribs on both sides of the engine. The engine will torque over towards the passenger side under load and most likely hit the rib. I put a hard wood wedge about 3/4” wide with rounded edges and shape on the tube side between the rib and the header tube from underneath, both sides at the same time so engine just didn’t move side to side and forced them up (with a hammer and long drift to get at them from bottom side) together which flattened the header tube slightly giving clearance. It was in the perfect place and looked “factory made” into the tube with a rounded impression which most likely does not effect flow in that tube at all but gave me 1/4” of clearance each side in just the right place without beating in the car ( that rib will not flatten easy). If the tube rubs it will rub through with time and also may be picked up by the knock sensor if banging off that rib under WOT and cause false knock and unnecessary timing pulls. My O2 and suggestion.

 

[Unholy707]

My JBA 1 7/8” Cat Forward CARB approved shortie headers (yes, my 1050-1100 wheel M6 is fully emission's compliant yet lol) and they only had about 1/8” of clearance to the tower ribs on both sides of the engine. The engine will torque over towards the passenger side under load and most likely hit the rib. I put a hard wood wedge about 3/4” wide with rounded edges and shape on the tube side between the rib and the header tube from underneath, both sides at the same time so engine just didn’t move side to side and forced them up (with a hammer and long drift to get at them from bottom side) together which flattened the header tube slightly giving clearance. It was in the perfect place and looked “factory made” into the tube with a rounded impression which most likely does not effect flow in that tube at all but gave me 1/4” of clearance each side in just the right place without beating in the car ( that rib will not flatten easy). If the tube rubs it will rub through with time and also may be picked up by the knock sensor if banging off that rib under WOT and cause false knock and unnecessary timing pulls. My O2 and suggestion.

Thanks @16GoManGoHC2. The engine torquing to that side and it being picked up by the knock sensor is my concern. I have tons of clearance on the driver side - passenger seems to be the issue. These are thicker gaskets, I have a set of new stock ones, but am concerned with leaks. I’d rather knock that rib in than the header, the hard wood wedge is a great idea though. I have at least 1/4” on driver side, maybe more. Hmm, I’ll have to put some thought into this. So much for bolt on, was expecting better quality control from kooks and a direct fit, which is why you pay more for these over other headers