What's next....I need a better 60'

[oilburner]

SCB110 lockout kit $249.99 from BMR. easy ,easy, one side at a time ,you don`t have to drop the whole cradle like they say.

 

[oilburner]

Great now I want to spend more money.🤣
I don't have an issue you know where. The other 3 tracks is a whole other story. It would be nice to get some help there.

looking forward to next weekend Jim, can you order some cooler temps please.

 

[moparjim]

looking forward to next weekend Jim, can you order some cooler temps please.

I wish. It will be better this weekend but rain all weekend. It looks like it will climb again afterwards. They can't forecast anything these days. Let's hope.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

SCB110 lockout kit $249.99 from BMR. easy ,easy, one side at a time ,you don`t have to drop the whole cradle like they say.

@oilburner
You take the exhaust off or just lower it out back too?
I have all this sitting waiting to install but don’t want to open a can of worms, I’m just not up for such atm, Had to many of late.
Unfortunately I work with floor jacks and jack Stands. What’s the estimated start to end time to install all this in one shot? I’m pretty mechanically inclined and have a plethora of tools at hand. Thinking of doing it today, like starting now

 

[oilburner]

@oilburner
You take the exhaust off or just lower it out back too?
I have all this sitting waiting to install but don’t want to open a can of worms, I’m just not up for such atm, Had to many of late.
Unfortunately I work with floor jacks and jack Stands. What’s the estimated start to end time to install all this in one shot? I’m pretty mechanically inclined and have a plethora of tools at hand. Thinking of doing it today, like starting now
View attachment 20025

I would do your lock out kit first an no you don`t need to drop exhaust. start on one side first, I started at R.F. corner of cradle an if you need more drop back off R.R. corner . hardest part is removing that odd shape safety wafer they put there. once you have done both on right side torque your bolts before you move over to left side ,that way there`s less chance of misaligning the whole cradle.I would do these first then take it for a ride to feel the diff. the arms are more involved but no need to remove exh.

when you do the arms remove the camber arm first then the upper forward arm , do the lower trailing arm last. install uppers with lower still in place .

they sent with stock length tabs in place. lay the new arms over top of stock arms an you can confirm yours are set at stock length.

 

[oilburner]

follow their instruction`s for removing those safety wafer`s an trimming rubber on stock mount`s.
make sure those rings are seated all the way ,I lubed them so they would fit over easy .

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Thanks guys, in process now. I lowered the exhaust already, and the whole cradle 4-5”. Doing it all in one shot

 

[oilburner]

Thanks guys, in process now. I lowered the exhaust already, and the whole cradle 4-5”. Doing it all in one shot
View attachment 20057

just looked again at the parts picture an see you have speedlogic arms without the tabs for adjustment. hope its all going smooth for you.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

just looked again at the parts picture an see you have speedlogic arms without the tabs for adjustment. hope its all going smooth for you.

Done, from this



To this



The Speedlogix ones use serrations, each click is .030”. I set them 2 clicks out from matching the OEM arms.



Installing the 6 arms was a breeze, the Diff Lock Out kit was the time consumer. Could do a second one in about 2/3 the time this took after knowing how it’s done now. It’s ready for a test blast.

 

[Doublewide]

@Marc W and others

Question on tires, front ones though but I’ll mention what I’m running out back for 60’ time which is the 315/50/17 MT Street R. My 1/4 speeds with a 10.6 1/4 1.50 60’ where 134-135 pretty consistently. At this time I had cheap ass old and hard Auturo 850 275/40-20 fronts. I changed the fronts to Nitto 275/40-20 555 G2 and noticed I lost 3-4 mph on the top end. Can’t figure out where it went. I even re-dyno’d the car to make sure I wasn’t down on power, it wasn’t, 855 wheel as usual. I pulled off one miraculous 9.998 run pulling a Hooked like never before 1.39 60’ and power shifting the whole way, right foot never left the carpet (M6), was the elusive perfect manual run. The ET was great but I would have expected the MPH be 137-138 but still slower then my historic 134-135 with 10.6 1/4’s before the front tire change. Can a change in front tires account for that kind of mph loss ?? If not what else to look for possibly??

View attachment 19925

You account for DA? I know I lose 3-4 mph in the summer months vs spring or fall

 

[NJ_Redeye]

We just finished installing the AAD drag pack kit( https://aadperformance.com/collections/dodge-charger/products/drag-pack), and the BMR cradle lockout on my car. Went over and got it aligned. The guys at aad talked to my alignment shop about setting it up.
Here are some pics:

Before


dropping cradle out of the car






Detail of all components, particularly the 4 cradle mounts, notice the bushings




After-

assembly complete





detail photo






Isotators inserted into 2 of the bushings






Wheelwell view




Sean

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

You account for DA? I know I lose 3-4 mph in the summer months vs spring or fall

DA was around 2200, that’s not to too bad. I lost the MPH back when it was cooler even, I noticed it right after the tire change. I think I’m going to get a set of the Auturos, their cheap (around 325 for a pair), and throw them on my spare rims and run them back to back against the new Nitto’s and see.

 

[Speedy!]

@16GoManGoHC2 man be careful with SpeedLogix parts. They have a history of being inferior and have issues. Don't wanna surprise at launch and wot.

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

Well @Speedy! now you have to get to the track!

Linda

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

@16GoManGoHC2 man be careful with SpeedLogix parts. They have a history of being inferior and have issues. Don't wanna surprise at launch and wot.

Nice I got rid of BMR stuff after seeing some of it break and thought I was upgrading to these. They look and feel like quality parts, they’re adjusting and lock up method looks sound as long as the bolts don’t come loose. I replaced the lock up hardware with grade 12.9 high quality stuff. Damn, now you’ve got me concerned again

 

[Hpindy]

Nice I got rid of BMR stuff after seeing some of it break and thought I was upgrading to these. They look and feel like quality parts, they’re adjusting and lock up method looks sound as long as the bolts don’t come loose. I replaced the lock up hardware with grade 12.9 high quality stuff. Damn, now you’ve got me concerned again

I have a set on my car ..... And a set on my old car . No issues what so ever. I wouldn't have sold them if they were junk or bought another set for that matter .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[Hickster]

Date a 40 year old. Old enough to teach ya sumtin.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I have a set on my car ..... And a set on my old car . No issues what so ever. I wouldn't have sold them if they were junk or bought another set for that matter .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

All good, there better then the BMR and for the price unbeatable!!

 

[fubar569]

@NJ_Redeye

Those appear to be a shortened rear end link for the sway bar?

When that cradle was reinstalled did you have any interference or contact between the sway and the upper control arm at full travel?

@16GoManGoHC2

Do you have shorter links on your car?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

@NJ_Redeye

Those appear to be a shortened rear end link for the sway bar?

When that cradle was reinstalled did you have any interference or contact between the sway and the upper control arm at full travel?

@16GoManGoHC2

Do you have shorter links on your car?

Yes, I have shorter sway bar links on my car to clear 17” rims used at the track