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Tire rotating on wheel

MaxCarnage

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#1
So out of curiosity I marked my new set of MT ET Rs that I just ran at the track. I made 3 passes on race start recluse 17x10.5 wheels (non beadlock). The left side seems to be the side that moved more (about an 1-1.5 inches a pass) the right side moved about 1.5 inches after 3 passes (about a 1/3 less). I also noticed the left side always seemed to throw down more rubber than the right side after burnouts. My 15' hellcat was the same, left side seemed be more torquey or dominate than the right.

Keep in mind I have a Redeye on stock power and I used Hi tack glue to keep them from moving. Hoping they settle after a bit and won't move so much, down the road. Otherwise beadlocks may be in my future. The other thing I was thinking though was that the tires shifting a bit like that might actually help take some of the drive train shock load. I've gone a best of 1.47 60ft with previous tires and 1.55 60ft (worse DA) this weekend with these tires so they seem to 60ft pretty well.

Does anyone think beadlocks would improve my 60ft times or reaction times? Or am I overthinking this? lol

Left side pic (worst movement, after 3 passes)
 


Primetime Hellcat 17

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#2
Bead locks will most definitely eliminate tire slippage on the wheels. FA4F86B7-BEAD-406C-87C2-C5B7A0B7AAA3.jpeg
Not the best pic. But my race stars are bead locked and had them widened from 9.5 to a 10 inch. I bought these off a forum member in here that had all the work done to the wheels before I bought them.
 


Primetime Hellcat 17

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#3
These are on a 315/50/17 the big boy tire. Lol
 


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#4
My research turned up the purpose of bead locks, at our 700-800hp power levels, is just to prevent from having to re-balance the tires when they spin around far enough to throw them off. Some guys have taped their weights to their wheels, in order to chase the tire and keep it balanced. I presume in order to do that, you would first have to have your wheels balanced with those weights stuck on "permanently"; while a 2nd set of weights would be movable, and aligned with the tire balance.

If your tire is only spinning about 1.5" per pass, how much would that translate into your 60' launch? I would guess not much. Whatever that number is, is that worth $x,xxx beadlock upgrade (since you already have wheels)?
 


Loucifer

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#5
My research turned up the purpose of bead locks, at our 700-800hp power levels, is just to prevent from having to re-balance the tires when they spin around far enough to throw them off. Some guys have taped their weights to their wheels, in order to chase the tire and keep it balanced. I presume in order to do that, you would first have to have your wheels balanced with those weights stuck on "permanently"; while a 2nd set of weights would be movable, and aligned with the tire balance.

If your tire is only spinning about 1.5" per pass, how much would that translate into your 60' launch? I would guess not much. Whatever that number is, is that worth $x,xxx beadlock upgrade (since you already have wheels)?
With that said, I opted for 17" beadlocks because I had nothing and D5 Forgestars are reasonably priced. Personally, I would have needed a 6" tire spin per pass to upgrade if I already had some other 17's.

Additional note, beadlocks weigh ~8 lbs more per wheel.
 


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#6
So out of curiosity I marked my new set of MT ET Rs that I just ran at the track. I made 3 passes on race start recluse 17x10.5 wheels (non beadlock). The left side seems to be the side that moved more (about an 1-1.5 inches a pass) the right side moved about 1.5 inches after 3 passes (about a 1/3 less). I also noticed the left side always seemed to throw down more rubber than the right side after burnouts. My 15' hellcat was the same, left side seemed be more torquey or dominate than the right.

Keep in mind I have a Redeye on stock power and I used Hi tack glue to keep them from moving. Hoping they settle after a bit and won't move so much, down the road. Otherwise beadlocks may be in my future. The other thing I was thinking though was that the tires shifting a bit like that might actually help take some of the drive train shock load. I've gone a best of 1.47 60ft with previous tires and 1.55 60ft (worse DA) this weekend with these tires so they seem to 60ft pretty well.

Does anyone think beadlocks would improve my 60ft times or reaction times? Or am I overthinking this? lol

Left side pic (worst movement, after 3 passes)
My left side also puts down more rubber. I think your are correct with your theory of a little slip is better for the driveline.
 


OP
MaxCarnage

MaxCarnage

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Thread Starter #7
With that said, I opted for 17" beadlocks because I had nothing and D5 Forgestars are reasonably priced. Personally, I would have needed a 6" tire spin per pass to upgrade if I already had some other 17's.

Additional note, beadlocks weigh ~8 lbs more per wheel.
Yeah I'm undecided although if I did buy some, the D5's are reasonably priced for beadlocks and I was considering buying matching fronts. But like you said though I already have wheels and it's not too much slip. I think the added slip reducing drivetrain shock isn't a bad thing either. The weight difference all depends on the wheel. My racestar recluse wheels are on the heavy side around 23-24lbs. A D5 non beadlock is 20lbs, and a D5 bead lock is 26lbs. Weld beadlocks are 24lbs (IIRC). I don't really care if they are off balance a bit, I only really use them for racing and hardly run them much on the street. If I see a good deal on some weld beadlocks I may pull the trigger, but like you said I already have wheels, so I don't think it's a huge priority to go beadlocks. I just may get front skinny wheels in the future and it would be nice if they matched, lol.
 


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MaxCarnage

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My left side also puts down more rubber. I think your are correct with your theory of a little slip is better for the driveline.
Yeah that's what I am thinking. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't thinking wrong or running an unsafe setup, but others have said that really isn't all that much slip per pass. My money is probably best spent elsewhere.
 


hell on wheels

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I run the Mt street r on my Demon.

I use hi- tack.

When my tire moves a couple inches. I mark it. Then

Rotate the tires to the opposite side of the car.

Next time they spin they will start Rebalancing themselves.

Do not drive in the rain.
 


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#10
Bead locks will most definitely eliminate tire slippage on the wheels. View attachment 3178
Not the best pic. But my race stars are bead locked and had them widened from 9.5 to a 10 inch. I bought these off a forum member in here that had all the work done to the wheels before I bought them.
So you are the lucky one that got those.👍
 


moparjim

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#11
Yeah that's what I am thinking. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't thinking wrong or running an unsafe setup, but others have said that really isn't all that much slip per pass. My money is probably best spent elsewhere.
The only thing wrong with beadlocks is if the tire moves on the inside it's worse. It twists the tire. And that really sucks. LOL
 


Marc W

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#12
I run the Mt street r on my Demon.

I use hi- tack.

When my tire moves a couple inches. I mark it. Then

Rotate the tires to the opposite side of the car.

Next time they spin they will start Rebalancing themselves.

Do not drive in the rain.
Ummm...... If you check the side of those tires you'll see that they are directional. They're only supposed to turn one way. If you were joking and I didn't get that.... my bad. If you actually do that..... don't.
 


hell on wheels

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Ummm...... If you check the side of those tires you'll see that they are directional. They're only supposed to turn one way. If you were joking and I didn't get that.... my bad. If you actually do that..... don't.
Not joking.

The directions of the arrows are
The direction of the water.
Do not drive in rain.
 


Loucifer

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Not joking.

The directions of the arrows are
The direction of the water.
Do not drive in rain.
This is incorrect. Water has nothing to do with directional tires. They are directional because of the way they are constructed and designed to be rotating on the vehicle.

Here's an excerpt from Tire safety.com.
https://www.tiresafety.com/en_us/maintaining-tires/tire-maintenance/tire-rotation

"Directional treads are designed to perform in the direction denoted on the tire sidewall only. They must always be rotated front to rear — no matter the vehicle they are installed on — so the direction of the rotation does not change."


I hate to hear about another limited edition Demon going down for something that can be avoided.

Hope this helps...
 


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#15
My left side also puts down more rubber. I think your are correct with your theory of a little slip is better for the driveline.
More torque is transferred to the left side. If you look at your axle shafts, you will see the driver's side is thicker for that very reason.
 


555 Redeye

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This is incorrect. Water has nothing to do with directional tires. They are directional because of the way they are constructed and designed to be rotating on the vehicle.

Here's an excerpt from Tire safety.com.
https://www.tiresafety.com/en_us/maintaining-tires/tire-maintenance/tire-rotation

"Directional treads are designed to perform in the direction denoted on the tire sidewall only. They must always be rotated front to rear — no matter the vehicle they are installed on — so the direction of the rotation does not change."


I hate to hear about another limited edition Demon going down for something that can be avoided.

Hope this helps...
Yup, correct you are Sir, next to the arrow on the sidewall is the word "ROTATION".
 


hell on wheels

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I don't use valve stem covers either.
 


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I had the Forgestar C5? setup, and I let it it rip. after 3 runs , It was noticeably unbalanced, I quit for the night, took the picture IMG_1251.jpeg


Then called up Mark Carlyle, who gave me a decent deal on these
Winlite_dragpack_at_DuckDuckGo.jpg


On the car


IMG_1323.jpeg




I just cut the best 60', and ran the best times I have ever run




IMG_1351.jpeg
 


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#20
With that said, I opted for 17" beadlocks because I had nothing and D5 Forgestars are reasonably priced. Personally, I would have needed a 6" tire spin per pass to upgrade if I already had some other 17's.

Additional note, beadlocks weigh ~8 lbs more per wheel.
Give me a heart attack.......
 




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