What's next....I need a better 60'

[fubar569]

Yes, I have shorter sway bar links on my car to clear 17” rims used at the track

What brand by chance? Notice any interference between the sway bar and those new upper arms?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

What brand by chance? Notice any interference between the sway bar and those new upper arms?

B Woody, don’t think there’s any issues, going for a test ride this am

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

SCB110 lockout kit $249.99 from BMR. easy ,easy, one side at a time ,you don`t have to drop the whole cradle like they say.

That wasn’t too bad to install but To install the Diff Lock Out kit you have to lower the cradle a bunch. I didn’t disconnect the brake lines or remove calipers like the instructions say I just unbolted the brake line mounts at the body each side and that gave plenty of flex to lower the cradle far enough to get the shims in the back mounts. You do have to disconnect the gas fill pipe but you don’t have to take it completely out like the instructions say, just the worm clamp at the bottom and pull it out of the rubber connector, you don’t need to disconnect the sensor either. Getting the front top lock out rings was the biggest pain, pry down on the front of the Diff the instructions say, yea right easier said then done lol but it’s doable, use the exhaust hanger mounts as a pry fulcrum and long pry bar.

 

[oilburner]

Done, from this

View attachment 20088

To this

View attachment 20089

The Speedlogix ones use serrations, each click is .030”. I set them 2 clicks out from matching the OEM arms.

View attachment 20090 View attachment 20091

Installing the 6 arms was a breeze, the Diff Lock Out kit was the time consumer. Could do a second one in about 2/3 the time this took after knowing how it’s done now. It’s ready for a test blast.

I shortened a 4 foot level to fit flat on the wheel lip too set up arms before I did the alignment an it worked great.
when I started in the trade years ago that`s all you used for alignment equipment, with bubble an measurement scales.
no fancy stuff like today.

 

[fubar569]

B Woody, don’t think there’s any issues, going for a test ride this am

Staying tuned for results for sure.

I plan to do AAD hardware but also need a shorter link BUT at least one of us has seen interference between the sway bar and AAD with shorter links. That was DGatzby with the Razor's Edge/StolenLogix billet rear links.

 

[Marc W]

I’m just guessing, but I bet those are a early AAD arm design that Speedlogix labeled with their name. They stole AADs harness bar, so why not these. That adjustment setup is actually pretty nifty as long as it stays tight and doesn’t move. I think making sure those bolts don’t loosen and you end up with a self adjusting control arm will be important. I would suggest besides checking those bolts frequently, that you paint a line on the arms in that adjustment area, so if they change position you will be able to see it. If they loosen up they could saw those serrations flat and ruin the arms. The current AADs can’t do that because they use tabs instead. Good job btw on doing all that on your own. 👍🏼

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I’m just guessing, but I bet those are a early AAD arm design that Speedlogix labeled with their name. They stole AADs harness bar, so why not these. That adjustment setup is actually pretty nifty as long as it stays tight and doesn’t move. I think making sure those bolts don’t loosen and you end up with a self adjusting control arm will be important. I would suggest besides checking those bolts frequently, that you paint a line on the arms in that adjustment area, so if they change position you will be able to see it. If they loosen up they could saw those serrations flat and ruin the arms. The current AADs can’t do that because they use tabs instead. Good job btw on doing all that on your own. 👍🏼

THANK YOU, It was a job but it’s do-able alone off jack stands with a floor jack. Yes, the Speedlogix arms are AAD copies except for the lock up, side by side it would be hard to tell
them apart except for the tabs.
These early lower tension arms are exact copies of the AAD ones. On those I suggest the Spheriflex bushings in the lower arms as getting the bolts in in the poly bushings ones is a bit tough. The best part? About 400$ for the complete 6 piece set, MUCH THANKS Hpindy!!

(Edit to clarify thank you Hpindy!!)

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Update, drive to a car show today, send fine alignment wise but will schedule one for next Saturday. Body roll much reduced in conering. I only did a few mild hits on the way here, didn’t hop at all but my tires are at 33 psi hot yet, real test will be when I lower them to 26 and do a street 1/4 pull, maybe later today but I want to check over the security of the lock up bolts first which requires removing the tires. But so far so good. Can feel a bit more NVH but only slight.

 

[Hpindy]

THANK YOU, It was a job but it’s do-able alone off jack stands with a floor jack. Yes, the Speedlogix arms are AAD copies except for the lock up, side by side it would be hard to tell
them apart except for the tabs.
These early lower tension arms are exact copies of the AAD ones. On those I suggest the Spheriflex bushings in the lower arms as getting the bolts in in the poly bushings ones is a bit tough. The best part? About 400$ for the complete 6 piece set, THANKS ALLOT Hpindy!!

Update, drive to a car show today, send fine alignment wise but will schedule one for next Saturday. Body roll much reduced in conering. I only did a few mild hits on the way here, didn’t hop at all but my tires are at 33 psi hot yet, real test will be when I lower them to 26 and do a street 1/4 pull, maybe later today but I want to check over the security of the lock up bolts first which requires removing the tires. But so far so good. Can feel a bit more NVH but only slight. View attachment 20141

I'm really happy with these pieces . I have installed a few sets so far over the last couple of years . Zero issues today . I do recommend red loctite and a paint pen to mark them once the final alignment is done .
Unfortunately that is a small trade off going to polyurethane bushings and stiffer arms but worth the price of admission.

Btw I'm glad I could help .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I'm really happy with these pieces . I have installed a few sets so far over the last couple of years . Zero issues today . I do recommend red loctite and a paint pen to mark them once the final alignment is done .
Unfortunately that is a small trade off going to polyurethane bushings and stiffer arms but worth the price of admission.

Btw I'm glad I could help .

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk

THANK YOU!!! Their GREAT and I’m sure as strong as the AAD at 1/3 the price !! I’m VERY happy with them

 

[fubar569]

When you go in to check those lock nuts and stuff...make sure you rip a couple sharp corners real good and check for marks on the arms and sway bar.

If yours clear that's a bit of good news for me.

 

[Speedy!]

I'll personally never run knock off parts from SpeedLogix.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Staying tuned for results for sure.

I plan to do AAD hardware but also need a shorter link BUT at least one of us has seen interference between the sway bar and AAD with shorter links. That was DGatzby with the Razor's Edge/StolenLogix billet rear links.

I couldn’t wait, no traffic, bridge to Mexico was all mine. Probably my best street 1/4 this season according to the car, battery positive just pulled while doing the work yesterday, my Gtech timer out for upgrade. It’s 88F here, Nitto NT05R at 32 psi and hot, no burn out. Spun in first and a bit in second peddling it but pretty impressed with the times. Now I’m home and will pull tires for inspection of arm bolts and for any rubbing. But here it is from the car timer.

 

[fubar569]

That's damn boot scootin for a manual!

Good work!

 

[fubar569]

That interference may only occur at full compression according to Dgatzby...but as you're aware 17's will hit at full droop/extension without the links.

It's not likely you'll encounter this on the street unless you're into actually hitting the .93g+ that the cars are rated at.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

So far so good. Nothing moved and all stayed tight and no signs of rubbing.
G’s, pulled .85. On my 9.998 pass at the track pulled 1.68 G’s. Hoping to get to the track again soon.

 

[coolblue]

So far so good. Nothing moved and all stayed tight and no signs of rubbing.
G’s, pulled .85. On my 9.998 pass at the track pulled 1.68 G’s. Hoping to get to the track again soon.
View attachment 20173 View attachment 20174 View attachment 20175

Glad they're working out for you. Some suspension mods may be my next mod instead of getting into motor, dk yet. But I cant believe you're even thinking about the Auturos for a comparison check after the way they chunked out all that rubber and failed internally on you.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Glad they're working out for you. Some suspension mods may be my next mod instead of getting into motor, dk yet. But I cant believe you're even thinking about the Auturos for a comparison check after the way they chunked out all that rubber and failed internally on you.

I know, but I just Gots ta know lol

 

[fubar569]

Man that looks close but if it clears it clears. I guess they are 1" shorter than stock according to an older sales page I found.

I need the end links before I'd need the arms. I should probably order the full set F & R.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

These are 9” center to center, I think their 2” shorter then stock, measure yours and you’ll know. They don’t look like they could hit any where.