Supercharger Teflon coating

[Speedy!]

The strength is in that honey comb a long with cooling though.

 

[Mean Cat]

The case may look 1/2” thick but in all this honey combing its only 1/4” thick if that View attachment 15801

Hey @16GoManGoHC2 , since your doing this S/C rebuild , it would be awesome & help others to post the torq. specs for everything on the blower assembly , if & when you can ? …..Thanks !

 

[Mean Cat]

I put a ported snout on my original supercharger which has about 53k miles on it. I noticed some of the Teflon coating was missing. How large of an issue is that? Can it be re applied?

Are you running a catch can ?..... it looks like a lot of oil residue or rotor material around the opening in the pic , wonder if oil coming through there with the rotors turning high speed would strip off & wear down the rotors like that ?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Hey @16GoManGoHC2 , since your doing this S/C rebuild , it would be awesome & help others to post the torq. specs for everything on the blower assembly , if & when you can ? …..Thanks !

Torque specs are going to be the easiest part of this rebuild, there’s only 3 places of bolt up. The Most challenging part is going to be getting the rotors Into the gear end press fit bearings without pressing them. It will be thermal difference all the way,rotors are frozen at minus 30 for a few days now, case and bearings will heat soak at 275 overnight, the rotors should drop right in them, then quickly get the main gear on the shaft and torque it in place. You get One shot at this, I don’t think this is going to be a task for everyone to try. Then comes timing the rotors afterwards. There’s 4 seals in the units, each one is a different part number and is directional. Waiting on them now, $40 each. The bearings for the gear end alone where almost $900. It would be cheaper to pick up a low miles used one then do what I’m doing but my goal is to use all super precision bearings and high speed Teflon seals so it’s good for 25,000 rpm input speed and time the rotors close on the pressure side of the lobes and see what kind of boost it makes. Something made this blower make more pressure then most for the same pulley size and I think it’s all in rotor timing. Be. Be nice if there was a manual or some instructions out there some where on rebuilding these but there isn’t, not that I could find at least.

 

[coolblue]

Great shots and thanks for sharing. I totally get what your saying. Maybe another Achille's heal to add on top of the pile with potential blower problems or failures. A lot going on in these things for sure. I'm also amazed at how small the actual blower is. It's really no bigger than the 2.3 Magnuson on top of my 6.1. It looks massive only because of the cast ports and cooler casings.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Lobes are shorter bigger around on the IHI then the Maggie and Whipple. I’ll take a picture of the washer that locks the follower rotor in place, this ones not diamond coated though like the crank washer.

 

[coolblue]

Lobes are shorter bigger around on the IHI then the Maggie and Whipple. I’ll take a picture of the washer that locks the follower rotor in place, this ones not diamond coated though like the crank washer.

You should somehow consolidate your posts (if you even wanted to be bothered, LOL) or start post in the build section or something to get more notice from other members and better recognition. A lot of your posts are tagged onto something else and prob go unnoticed by many. The pics and information are very valuable. Unless it's just a PIA to do it and you don't care. Maybe @HellcatFan or @BULL could suggest or help with that.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Yea, I’ve often thought of that lol, no time.
Here’s for all you guys running a solid pulley, this little washer is the only thing keeping the idler rotor in time with the driven one. The gear is NOT a press fit on the shaft either, it’s a slip fit and held in tension by a left hand bolt. The bigger gear is a shrink fit, it’s not moving, but the little one’s not got a whole lot holding it in place and it spins faster then the driving gear and is about twice it’s weight, ALLOT of inertia going on here to change speeds in a instant driven by a solid hub pulley. I won’t run one.

 

[coolblue]

Sometimes you gotta' put trust in the engineers and say "hey they did it for a reason right?" and other times you just gotta' say "Wtf ?!".

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Exactly, that’s why they put a clutch’d pulley on that supercharger and why no one that rebuilds them such as John Bond warranty their rebuilds if you use a solid pulley and they could tell because only way they could get knocked out of time is a quick speed change and a solid pulley is the only thing that will do such. That little spacer ring is how you set the timing between the two rotors, So what do you think happens if it gets knocked loose?

 

[HRJ]

Fantastic info. Thanks for taking the time to post it.

 

[Mean Cat]

Yea, I’ve often thought of that lol, no time.
Here’s for all you guys running a solid pulley, this little washer is the only thing keeping the idler rotor in time with the driven one. The gear is NOT a press fit on the shaft either, it’s a slip fit and held in tension by a left hand bolt. The bigger gear is a shrink fit, it’s not moving, but the little one’s not got a whole lot holding it in place and it spins faster then the driving gear and is about twice it’s weight, ALLOT of inertia going on here to change speeds in a instant driven by a solid hub pulley. I won’t run one.
View attachment 15809 View attachment 15810

Good info @16GoManGoHC2 & Thanks , but trying to rap my head around the washer & timing the rotors ?.....are you saying if the bolt comes loose the timing will be off (obvious) ?....not really the washer ?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

If the bolt comes loose the only thing driving the rotor then would be the other rotor as the little gear is just a slip fit on the 3 line rotor shaft, it relies on clamp force to drive it, no keys, no splines, just like the harmonic damper. I think it would make lots of noise if that happened. The 3 lobe rotor is adjusted to the 5 lobe one to center itself between the lobes so they don’t touch one another, there’s about .008” clearance between the 2 and it can be adjusted back and forth ever so slightly to close the gap on the pressure side of the flight and I think that’s what makes one SC make a bit more boost then another, how that gap relation is set. But get it too tight and they’ll rub just like in the picture at the beginning of this post. Something made my original blower make 17psi of boost with a 2.85 Litens, my spare blower only made 16.5 with same snout and pulley. That’s the experiment in this project.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

O, the washer is just a spacer, maybe I should have called it such, it sandwiches between the clamp bolt washer and the gear which then clamps the gear between the bolts washer and the rotors shaft against a shoulder, got it now?
This thing

 

[Mean Cat]

O, the washer is just a spacer, maybe I should have called it such, it sandwiches between the clamp bolt washer and the gear which then clamps the gear between the bolts washer and the rotors shaft against a shoulder, got it now?
This thing
View attachment 15813

Do you know the torq spec on the rotor gear bolts ?....Loctite would help since your there.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Nope, it’s getting impacted lol
But yes some blue loctite would be advantageous, I use loctite products often, have an arsenal of their products at hand always.

 

[Mean Cat]

I get it , thanks for sharing the internals of this , interesting to me cause I like to do things myself when I can & I like to know how things work , just in case ?

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Same as me, How Its Made is one of my favorite shows as to me it How it comes apart as well lol
I would make a thread on it but after I’m done remembering all the steps doesn’t happen as I’m going 3-4 projects at a time always with picking up one while waiting on parts of something else for another etc.

 

[TNREDEYE]

Good thread Go.

With a total of .008 to deal with what sort of front/rear split are you planning to go with? Also, is the number .008 a factory supplied spec you're stating or an as measured number from a blower you've measured?

 

[coolblue]

If the bolt comes loose the only thing driving the rotor then would be the other rotor as the little gear is just a slip fit on the 3 line rotor shaft, it relies on clamp force to drive it, no keys, no splines, just like the harmonic damper. I think it would make lots of noise if that happened. The 3 lobe rotor is adjusted to the 5 lobe one to center itself between the lobes so they don’t touch one another, there’s about .008” clearance between the 2 and it can be adjusted back and forth ever so slightly to close the gap on the pressure side of the flight and I think that’s what makes one SC make a bit more boost then another, how that gap relation is set. But get it too tight and they’ll rub just like in the picture at the beginning of this post. Something made my original blower make 17psi of boost with a 2.85 Litens, my spare blower only made 16.5 with same snout and pulley. That’s the experiment in this project.

Ha, just answered my next question. Thank you. BUT where do you measure it from? The rotors are on a curve. Soooo between the gear teeth?