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Supercharger Teflon coating

16GoManGoHC2

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#41
Good thread Go.

With a total of .008 to deal with what sort of front/rear split are you planning to go with? Also, is the number .008 a factory supplied spec you're stating or an as measured number from a blower you've measured?
One, there’s no instructions, specs, NOTHING anywheres to reference, ZILCH, Nada, Nothing, on my own her unfortunately.
Clearance I’m referring to is between lobes male/female mating clearance on the lead and the lag sides of the flights, measured with long, 12”, brass feeler gauges wormed up around them. When I say .008” per side it’s because when I tore my second blower down to install the FAS plate that ruined my first blower I measured, marked, and documented EVERYTHING as it came apart. My second blower had .006” on the .lead side and .010” on the lag side, .016” total. I don’t know what this blower had to start with but it was msking 17.25 psi of boost with a 2.85 and this blowers making 16-16.5 and I can only think it’s from lobe relationship as there’s not much else that’s Changable in building it. Big debate inside is I don’t know where exactly it’s supposed to be, split in the middle, tighter on pressure side??? I talked to Jon Bknd twice, he’ll of a nice guy but not sharing ANY tips, tidbits, or even directly asked question even as simple as timing of the blower, his own words, he’s in business to rebuild blowers not give secrets away so everyone can do it, understandable but geez lol. Anxious to sell me parts though lol.
 


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#42
Ok, I misread. .016 total is plenty of room for leakage on a blower that doesn't have any sort of teflon stripping to seal the rotors(ie. street blower). So yes, I'd say pushing the rotor off center to create a tight side will definitely help seal things up.

Have you checked the rotor to rotor bore clearance? Being mass produced items I'd think the tolerances there could lead to a stack up that just makes one blower naturally tighter than another.
 


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#43
One, there’s no instructions, specs, NOTHING anywheres to reference, ZILCH, Nada, Nothing, on my own her unfortunately.
Clearance I’m referring to is between lobes male/female mating clearance on the lead and the lag sides of the flights, measured with long, 12”, brass feeler gauges wormed up around them. When I say .008” per side it’s because when I tore my second blower down to install the FAS plate that ruined my first blower I measured, marked, and documented EVERYTHING as it came apart. My second blower had .006” on the .lead side and .010” on the lag side, .016” total. I don’t know what this blower had to start with but it was msking 17.25 psi of boost with a 2.85 and this blowers making 16-16.5 and I can only think it’s from lobe relationship as there’s not much else that’s Changable in building it. Big debate inside is I don’t know where exactly it’s supposed to be, split in the middle, tighter on pressure side??? I talked to Jon Bknd twice, he’ll of a nice guy but not sharing ANY tips, tidbits, or even directly asked question even as simple as timing of the blower, his own words, he’s in business to rebuild blowers not give secrets away so everyone can do it, understandable but geez lol. Anxious to sell me parts though lol.
How is that possible? The specs part I mean. Does FCA and/or IHI consider the specs trade secrets or something? That just doesn't make sense to me.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#44
How is that possible? The specs part I mean. Does FCA and/or IHI consider the specs trade secrets or something? That just doesn't make sense to me.
Try to find parts even beyond a gasket set. You can’t even get the factory oil for the damn thing!!
 


Mean Cat

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#45
Try to find parts even beyond a gasket set. You can’t even get the factory oil for the damn thing!!
In that case , what oil are you gonna put in it ?
 


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16GoManGoHC2

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#46
Jon Bond’s oil and his seals, no other choice
 


Felt

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#47
@16GoManGoHC2 How exactly or maybe I should say where do put the oil in at? I noticed he sells a syringe kit with his oil. Is there just a plug somewhere and it's normally sealed for life?
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#48
Back of supercharger on gear case cover are 2 1/8” NPT drain and fill/level plugs, they even have little magnets in them.
I’ll post a picture of the cover showing them for you later after I get home
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#49
Just FYI on the seals, ruined one trying to fit it to the shaft, 56$ in the toilet, had to make a tapered tool to fit them with, they are Teflon and not like a standard seal, thank God for a lath and material at hand. On line instructions say to fit them dry, no oil no grease, no fun lol
 


Felt

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#50
Back of supercharger on gear case cover are 2 1/8” NPT drain and fill/level plugs, they even have little magnets in them.
I’ll post a picture of the cover showing them for you later after I get home
Thanks was just curious in case ever down the road....
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#51
Thanks was just curious in case ever down the road....
Here you go, the drain unfortunately won’t get all the oil out of the unit, you have to remove the unit and tip it back to do so. I Wouldn’t recommend just changing the oil unless you have the supercharger off since it really can’t be drained properly in place, the oil that’s in it is good for 100,000 miles its said.

image.jpg image.jpg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#52
Here’s how much factory oil is only in one, that’s a16oz mason jar, so about 8 oz minus what was lost removing it
image.jpg
 


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#53
How is that possible? The specs part I mean. Does FCA and/or IHI consider the specs trade secrets or something? That just doesn't make sense to me.
I have chimed in on this more than once, on this and the other site. It is my biggest pet peeve about Mopar/FCA since making the jump from Chevy. Information is REDICULOUSY hard to get!
Now @16GoManGoHC2 says he can't get parts OR oil?!! That's just flat not right.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#54
I have chimed in on this more than once, on this and the other site. It is my biggest pet peeve about Mopar/FCA since making the jump from Chevy. Information is REDICULOUSY hard to get!
Now @16GoManGoHC2 says he can't get parts OR oil?!! That's just flat not right.
Try contacting IHI America, that’s even more of a joke, Try searching for the seals by part number online I have four days comes up blank right even to NOK The manufacturer of the seals they have no idea on the number and it’s molded right on the seal WTF??
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#55
Supercharger is ready for assembly finally, maybe this weekend, this isn’t going to be a task to rush through.
Area Damaged from rotor getting pushed back from FAS bearing plate bores being too tight milled smooth and filled with Devcon Aluminum Repair putty and polished smooth. Next tricky part is going to be getting the rotors through the Teflon seals without ruining them and in through the bearings without ruining them as well.
EE1873E2-C13E-461F-B9C2-9D5224B99A9E.jpeg 65BE6C5A-ABFF-4424-8CC1-47874DDE9B9C.jpeg 30DF5A71-779A-4757-8F00-59A31C25B505.jpeg 99F3B8A0-8F43-4292-B9BD-62EEB0F1F819.jpeg
 


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#56
Anyone seen the video floating around on the facebooks of the Redeye with a stock blower that spit a piece of the blower up thru the hood? Wonder what happened on that one!
 


coolblue

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#57
Try contacting IHI America, that’s even more of a joke, Try searching for the seals by part number online I have four days comes up blank right even to NOK The manufacturer of the seals they have no idea on the number and it’s molded right on the seal WTF??
That really is unbelievable. Did you cross reference and go with another manufacturer?
 


coolblue

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#58
Anyone seen the video floating around on the facebooks of the Redeye with a stock blower that spit a piece of the blower up thru the hood? Wonder what happened on that one!
No, I don't belong to Facebook. But thanks for giving me something else to worry about. Lol.
 


16GoManGoHC2

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#59
That really is unbelievable. Did you cross reference and go with another manufacturer?
The numbers don’t come up on any searches, I’ve tried for days. I can get a seal the same ID OD and Width but no where close to the same lip design and unknown material. Google installing a Teflon oil seal, it’s easy on a tapered shaft designed for such but not on a shaft with no taper and 2 seals with 4 lips to get a frozen shaft through quickly, then do another as quickly right along side it while twisting and screwing the lobe mesh together. Remember these shafts turn 18-23,000 rpms, that’s some high surface speed for a contact seal to survive under. I made a tool to pre-fit Bonds Teflon seals correctly, will be sacrificing one fitted seal in a 275F degree oven test to see what it does to the fitted to size Teflon lip, Teflon grows like mad when heated, and if heated too much produces some really nasty for you fumes. Hopefully it doesn’t squash my plans of heating up the bearings and housing as an assembly in a 275F oven over night and then drop the frozen at minus 22F for a week rotors right in them stress free. If I can pull that off it will run forever even at 25,000 rpm input speed.
E992DA5F-1AA2-4463-9E39-4E821085BA95.jpeg
 


16GoManGoHC2

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