What's next....I need a better 60'

[fubar569]

I think factory is 10" long. I'll measure on days off to be sure. Gotta do the fender prep anyways for the 315's so wheels will be coming off.

The links themselves wont hit...but too short of a link pulls the sway down too low so it hits that one upper arm when fully compressed. So the story goes.

The Razor's Edge ones are under 9". About 8.25 IIRC. So I can see how they'd make it hit.

These being 9" if stock is closer to 10 would be the happy medium I think I need.

Thanks for everything man.

Now back to helping @Speedy! Improve his 60ft.

 

[NJ_Redeye]

@NJ_Redeye

Those appear to be a shortened rear end link for the sway bar?

When that cradle was reinstalled did you have any interference or contact between the sway and the upper control arm at full travel?

@16GoManGoHC2

Do you have shorter links on your car?

They Are Shortened(from HHP)
No interference at all

 

[Phast Hemi]

Ive read all these posts and everyone has their way of skinning the cat I suppose. If you want to compromise the ride and handling of the car for a better 60"...I'm sure a lot of these suspension and cradle widgets will move you in the right direction. If you still daily the car and want it to ride like stock, read on..

1. the 2.62 and 3.09 , when properly setup will 60 ft within .01 of each other
2. the 305/45/17 tire becomes inconsistent on these heavy ass cars below a certain et/mph and cant hang with larger sidewall counterparts
3. If you want a better 60ft- put in the seat time and learn the tire. It takes me 60-100 passes to "learn" a tire... and yes, sometimes that means buying 2 sets to get dialed in. Once im dialed, I can get the car down almost any track and cut a 1.3x 60 ft dong it at my modest boost level (stock boost redeye)
4. You can either beat up your wheel houses or bolt on a brake conversion. The taller sidewall will not only get you a better 60ft, but you will also break fewer parts
5. 1.3x 60 fts are possible and duplicatable in 3000+ DA at 4600lbs using the stock suspension and stock alignment specs in a stock boost car. Better 60s can be achieved with more boost.

Hope this helps

 

[Mean Cat]

Ive read all these posts and everyone has their way of skinning the cat I suppose. If you want to compromise the ride and handling of the car for a better 60"...I'm sure a lot of these suspension and cradle widgets will move you in the right direction. If you still daily the car and want it to ride like stock, read on..

1. the 2.62 and 3.09 , when properly setup will 60 ft within .01 of each other
2. the 305/45/17 tire becomes inconsistent on these heavy ass cars below a certain et/mph and cant hang with larger sidewall counterparts
3. If you want a better 60ft- put in the seat time and learn the tire. It takes me 60-100 passes to "learn" a tire... and yes, sometimes that means buying 2 sets to get dialed in. Once im dialed, I can get the car down almost any track and cut a 1.3x 60 ft dong it at my modest boost level (stock boost redeye)
4. You can either beat up your wheel houses or bolt on a brake conversion. The taller sidewall will not only get you a better 60ft, but you will also break fewer parts
5. 1.3x 60 fts are possible and duplicatable in 3000+ DA at 4600lbs using the stock suspension and stock alignment specs in a stock boost car. Better 60s can be achieved with more boost.

Hope this helps

I agree with your assessment on the ride quality with suspension upgrades, I put the Spohn arms on & didn't like the more NVH it made. So I took them off & just kept the lower arm, which is fine. I race mine but still don't want to lose ride quality on the street.
I swapped to the 3.09 with the 315 tire, I think it helps with the weight of these cars & taller tire.
And nothing is a substitute for seat time.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I agree with your assessment on the ride quality with suspension upgrades, I put the Spohn arms on & didn't like the more NVH it made. So I took them off & just kept the lower arm, which is fine. I race mine but still don't want to lose ride quality on the street.
I swapped to the 3.09 with the 315 tire, I think it helps with the weight of these cars & taller tire.
And nothing is a substitute for seat time.

There is more NVH with all this stuff. My wonder is which contributes the most?
Cradle Lock out kit?
Differential Lock out kit?
The upper 2 arms?
The Lower Trailing arm?

I’ll be weighing NVH over performance gain myself these next few weeks.

 

[oilburner]

I like the ride quality better than stock set up, as for noise I honestly can`t tell any difference. my main reason for all the upgrades was to eliminate wheel hop an so far so good . will see how it performs next weekend at the track.

 

[oilburner]

Ive read all these posts and everyone has their way of skinning the cat I suppose. If you want to compromise the ride and handling of the car for a better 60"...I'm sure a lot of these suspension and cradle widgets will move you in the right direction. If you still daily the car and want it to ride like stock, read on..

1. the 2.62 and 3.09 , when properly setup will 60 ft within .01 of each other
2. the 305/45/17 tire becomes inconsistent on these heavy ass cars below a certain et/mph and cant hang with larger sidewall counterparts
3. If you want a better 60ft- put in the seat time and learn the tire. It takes me 60-100 passes to "learn" a tire... and yes, sometimes that means buying 2 sets to get dialed in. Once im dialed, I can get the car down almost any track and cut a 1.3x 60 ft dong it at my modest boost level (stock boost redeye)
4. You can either beat up your wheel houses or bolt on a brake conversion. The taller sidewall will not only get you a better 60ft, but you will also break fewer parts
5. 1.3x 60 fts are possible and duplicatable in 3000+ DA at 4600lbs using the stock suspension and stock alignment specs in a stock boost car. Better 60s can be achieved with more boost.

Hope this helps

would you mine sharing what tire wheel combo works best for you, pressure etc.

 

[moparjim]

would you mine sharing what tire wheel combo works best for you, pressure etc.

He has a 275 radial pro on forgestars I believe.

 

[Phast Hemi]

would you mine sharing what tire wheel combo works best for you, pressure etc.

Any number of wheel and tire setups can be made to work as long as it has enough sidewall. I ran the 305/45/17 last year and it was good to about low 1.4s. Keep in mind that you will need to do the work, put in the seat time, learn the tire to get there. I currently run the 275 radial pro because the small tire shootouts require a 28 tire on a 15" rim to be legal.

 

[Hpindy]

There is more NVH with all this stuff. My wonder is which contributes the most?
Cradle Lock out kit?
Differential Lock out kit?
The upper 2 arms?
The Lower Trailing arm?

I’ll be weighing NVH over performance gain myself these next few weeks.

I will throw in my worthless $.02
I installed the cradle lock out kit last season and you can't even tell it's in there. Zero NVH , zero down sides . ( unless you count eliminating side to side "wiggle" a down side) . I also have the DIRS brace which I think is a great improvement with zero down sides .
Rod ends and delrin bushings will definitely transfer more NVH and harshness . I stayed away from those bushings and started with the standard polyurethane bushings that come in the arms but I'm now experimenting with different grades of rubber/polyurethane to get the feel that I want . Some people are ok with a soft squishy ride like they are driving a water bed and some people will settle for a harsh dump truck ride . Not me ! As with all aspects of my car I want it to be a particular way and I won't settle till I find it . I also like the adjustable arms so I can make the alignment the way I want it. I guess some people are ok with their tires wearing uneven. My car is a street car first and foremost. I log an average of 10,000 mile a summer on it . I'm not compromising on ride quality and street manners for .001 at the track that I go to a couple of times a year . To each their own .

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[Mean Cat]

There is more NVH with all this stuff. My wonder is which contributes the most?
Cradle Lock out kit?
Differential Lock out kit?
The upper 2 arms?
The Lower Trailing arm?

I’ll be weighing NVH over performance gain myself these next few weeks.

Although they work I'm sure but I believe the cradle lock out & the 2 upper arms will make the most NVH.
I kept the lower Spohn arm & have the P4D brace & don't notice any NVH.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I will throw in my worthless $.02
I installed the cradle lock out kit last season and you can't even tell it's in there. Zero NVH , zero down sides . ( unless you count eliminating side to side "wiggle" a down side) . I also have the DIRS brace which I think is a great improvement with zero down sides .
Rod ends and delrin bushings will definitely transfer more NVH and harshness . I stayed away from those bushings and started with the standard polyurethane bushings that come in the arms but I'm now experimenting with different grades of rubber/polyurethane to get the feel that I want . Some people are ok with a soft squishy ride like they are driving a water bed and some people will settle for a harsh dump truck ride . Not me ! As with all aspects of my car I want it to be a particular way and I won't settle till I find it . I also like the adjustable arms so I can make the alignment the way I want it. I guess some people are ok with their tires wearing uneven. My car is a street car first and foremost. I log an average of 10,000 mile a summer on it . I'm not compromising on ride quality and street manners for .001 at the track that I go to a couple of times a year . To each their own .

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Your .02 is valuable input, THANK YOU!! The NVH is not severe, actually it’s only noticeable with the music off. Most of what I feel is off throttle noise, like being able to feel the exhaust rumbling but it’s not exhaust. My guess it’s coming from the Diff or tires? I’ve yet to get it aligned so some of it could be coming from toe or camber not being where it should be? Be getting it aligned this Saturday. When doing the alignment should I just let them work on the rear end or should they check and or adjust the front to something as well. From all I’ve read the rear should be 0 to +.5 camber and zero toe?
What about the front?

 

[Hpindy]

Your .02 is valuable input, THANK YOU!! The NVH is not severe, actually it’s only noticeable with the music off. Most of what I feel is off throttle noise, like being able to feel the exhaust rumbling but it’s not exhaust. My guess it’s coming from the Diff or tires? I’ve yet to get it aligned so some of it could be coming from toe or camber not being where it should be? Be getting it aligned this Saturday. When doing the alignment should I just let them work on the rear end or should they check and or adjust the front to something as well. From all I’ve read the rear should be 0 to +.5 camber and zero toe?
What about the front?

On my alignment I did front stock . In the rear I did stock toe and caster but went with .5+ camber . Some of the guys guys are running .3+ to 0 .

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[16GoManGoHC2]

My wonder is the root of it all the drive shaft?? I’m tempted to toss the stock DS back on and see what it’s like on the highway? If it cures all maybe a Mark Williams 2 piece is the next thing to save up for? I run the Wiles at the moment, tried a DSS one first but it was horrible. Remember on a M6 the DS is turning 40% faster then on a A8 with 2.62 gears, M6 units much more prone to vibrating due to their higher speed

 

[Mean Cat]

I will throw in my worthless $.02
I installed the cradle lock out kit last season and you can't even tell it's in there. Zero NVH , zero down sides . ( unless you count eliminating side to side "wiggle" a down side) . I also have the DIRS brace which I think is a great improvement with zero down sides .
Rod ends and delrin bushings will definitely transfer more NVH and harshness . I stayed away from those bushings and started with the standard polyurethane bushings that come in the arms but I'm now experimenting with different grades of rubber/polyurethane to get the feel that I want . Some people are ok with a soft squishy ride like they are driving a water bed and some people will settle for a harsh dump truck ride . Not me ! As with all aspects of my car I want it to be a particular way and I won't settle till I find it . I also like the adjustable arms so I can make the alignment the way I want it. I guess some people are ok with their tires wearing uneven. My car is a street car first and foremost. I log an average of 10,000 mile a summer on it . I'm not compromising on ride quality and street manners for .001 at the track that I go to a couple of times a year . To each their own .

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That is prob. the biggest difference on NVH is the bushing type, the Spohn arms have the Delrin bushing which is harder than polyurethane ones.

 

[Mean Cat]

On my alignment I did front stock . In the rear I did stock toe and caster but went with .5+ camber . Some of the guys guys are running .3+ to 0 .

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Are the stock upper arms able to be adjusted for toe & camber ?

 

[moparjim]

Are the stock upper arms able to be adjusted for toe & camber ?

You can use moog K100173 on the rear upper forward arm to get plus or minus 1.5 degrees camber with the stock arms.

 

[Hpindy]

Are the stock upper arms able to be adjusted for toe & camber ?

You can use moog K100173 on the rear upper forward arm to get plus or minus 1.5 degrees camber with the stock arms.

@Mean Cat

See moparjims comment . It's a little time consuming but will net you the camber that you want .

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[16GoManGoHC2]

I made a suggestion of using these on another post on one of the sites but no one chimed in on if they work or not. They where a different brand though but same concept.

 

[Hpindy]

I made a suggestion of using these on another post on one of the sites but no one chimed in on if they work or not. They where a different brand though but same concept.
View attachment 20226

You will get the camber but still have all the flex and squishiness of stock .

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